Cyprus in 5 Days: Ruins, Mountains & the Divided Capital
Paphos UNESCO mosaics, Troodos cedar forests, Limassol commandaria wine, the world's last divided capital, and Aphrodite's Rock at golden hour. The complete guide from €55/day.
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Cyprus is the eastern Mediterranean distilled into one island — Aphrodite's birthplace, a UNESCO mosaic park, a divided capital, cedar-forested mountains, and wine villages that have been pressing grapes since the Bronze Age.
⚡ What Cyprus Actually Is
Most people think Cyprus means beach resorts and package holidays. That's partly true — the coast from Ayia Napa to Fig Tree Bay in Protaras is genuinely excellent, and Paphos has the best resort strip in the eastern Mediterranean. But the interior of the island is something else entirely: Troodos mountain villages at 1,300 metres elevation, Kykkos Monastery glittering with gold mosaic, endemic cedar forests patrolled by wild mouflon, and the Bronze Age commandaria wine tradition that has been unbroken for over 3,000 years.
Then there's Nicosia — the only remaining divided capital in the world. Since 1974, the city has been split between the Republic of Cyprus in the south and Turkish-controlled Northern Cyprus in the north, separated by a UN Buffer Zone that runs directly through the old town. You can still cross on foot at the Ledra Street checkpoint with just a passport. The contrast between the two sides — Greek Cypriot coffee shops and Ottoman caravanserais separated by a 300-metre strip of no-man's-land — is unlike anything else in Europe.
Five days is the right amount of time. Enough to cover the Paphos Archaeological Park (€4.50, Roman mosaics that have been lying undisturbed for 1,700 years), drive the Troodos villages, taste commandaria at its source in Omodos, stand in the buffer zone in Nicosia, and still catch the sunset at Aphrodite's Rock — Petra tou Romiou — on the coast. A hire car is essential for anything beyond Paphos. Budget from €25/day for a small automatic. Drive on the left (British system).
PFO / LCA
Main Airports
Apr–Jun · Sep–Oct
Best Season
11 Painted Churches
UNESCO Sites
€55/day
Budget From
🌡️ Best Time to Visit Cyprus
Apr–Jun — Spring — Best Season
Recommended
22–28°C on the coast, 15–20°C in the mountains. The Akamas Peninsula is carpeted in wildflowers in April. Commandaria wine festivals begin in May. Prices are 30–40% lower than peak summer. The ideal window for exploring both coast and mountains without brutal heat.
Sep–Oct — Autumn — Also Excellent
Highly recommended
25–30°C, sea still warm from summer. Grape harvest season in the Troodos wine villages — September wine festivals in Limassol are worth timing your trip around. Fewer crowds than July–August, much lower prices. Second-best window after spring.
Jul–Aug — Summer — Hot & Expensive
Avoid if possible
38–42°C on the coast. Prices spike 40–60%, Ayia Napa and Fig Tree Bay are extremely crowded, and archaeological sites become physically punishing by mid-morning. If you must visit in summer, stay on the coast and limit ruins visits to early morning only.
Nov–Mar — Winter — Quiet & Mild
Off-season
15–18°C on the coast, snow in the Troodos above 1,500m. You can ski Troodos (Mount Olympus, 1,952m) and swim at the beach in the same day — a genuinely unique Cyprus experience. Archaeological sites and museums are uncrowded. Some beach restaurants close.
✈️ Getting to Cyprus
Key detail: Cyprus has two international airports — Paphos (PFO) in the west and Larnaca (LCA) in the east. For this 5-day itinerary starting in Paphos, fly into PFO. If arriving at Larnaca, the bus to Nicosia runs hourly and takes 1 hour (€3). A hire car is essential for days 3–5.
Fly to Paphos Airport (PFO) — recommended
Best for this itineraryDirect flights from London (3.5 hrs), Amsterdam (4 hrs), Frankfurt (3.5 hrs), Athens (1.5 hrs), Tel Aviv (1 hr). Budget carriers including Ryanair and Wizz Air serve PFO from multiple European cities. From the airport, bus 612 runs to Paphos town centre for €1.50 (30 mins), or a taxi costs €15–20.
Fly to Larnaca Airport (LCA) — eastern entry
More connectionsMore international connections than Paphos, including direct flights from the US (via connecting hubs) and more Middle Eastern routes. From LCA: bus to Nicosia every hour, €3, 1 hour. Bus to Limassol every 30 mins, €5, 1.5 hours. Taxi to Nicosia: €50. Good entry point if starting from Nicosia.
Intercity buses — OSEA / Intercity
Budget city travelCyprus's intercity coach network connects all major cities. Paphos to Limassol: €5, 1.5 hours. Limassol to Nicosia: €4.50, 1 hour. Larnaca to Nicosia: €3, 1 hour. Frequent departures 7am–8pm. Cheap and reliable for city-to-city movement, but useless for Troodos mountains or rural sites.
Hire car — essential for this itinerary
Essential for TroodosA hire car unlocks the whole island. Rates from €25/day for a small automatic from local companies (Paphos Airport and Larnaca Airport both have good options). Drive on the left. Roads are excellent and well-signposted in both Greek and English. Fuel is cheaper than most of Western Europe. Parking is easy outside city centres.
📅 5-Day Cyprus Itinerary
Each day card is expandable. The itinerary is structured around Paphos as a base for days 1–3, with day 4 in Limassol and day 5 in Nicosia before departure. A hire car from day 3 onwards is essential.
- ●14:00 — Arrive Paphos Airport (PFO). Take the 612 bus to Paphos town centre for €1.50 — far cheaper than a taxi (€15–20). Check in to a budget guesthouse or 3-star hotel in Kato Paphos (€25–80/night). The Kato Paphos area is best — walkable to the ruins and harbour.
- ●16:00 — Walk to Paphos Archaeological Park (UNESCO World Heritage Site, €4.50). The floor mosaics inside the House of Dionysus are 1,700 years old and among the finest Roman mosaics in the world. The scenes depicting the myths of Dionysus, Theseus and Narcissus are extraordinary in scale and colour. Allow 1.5 to 2 hours.
- ●18:00 — Stroll Paphos Harbour and the medieval Paphos Castle at sunset (€2.50 entry — or free to walk around outside). The harbour promenade is lined with tavernas competing for your attention. The light on the water at golden hour from the castle battlements is excellent.
- ●19:30 — Dinner: grilled halloumi, kleftiko (slow-cooked lamb), and village salad at a taverna on Apostolou Pavlou Avenue. A full budget meal with a local Keo beer is €12–15. Avoid the most tourist-facing spots on the harbour front — two streets back gives better food at lower prices.
- ●21:00 — Evening walk along the coastal path toward the Tombs of the Kings. The sea cliffs are impressive even in the dark and the path is well-lit. A good way to get your bearings for day 2.
- ●09:00 — Tombs of the Kings (€2.50, opens 8:30am). These 4th-century BC underground rock tombs were carved for Ptolemaic nobles — the name is misleading, no kings were actually buried here, but the scale and the quality of carving (some with Doric columns carved directly into the rock face) are genuinely impressive. The site is vast, quiet in the morning, and completely undervisited.
- ●11:00 — Bus to Coral Bay (route 615, €1.50) — a beautiful sandy cove 10km north of Paphos with calm turquoise water. Free beach with sunlounger hire at €3 each. Good swimming and snorkelling along the rocky left-hand headland. Busier in July–August; in spring it is very relaxed.
- ●13:00 — Lunch at a beach taverna: calamari, tzatziki and pita for €10–12; fresh fish plates around €14. The fish is genuinely fresh — much of it caught from the same harbour the day before.
- ●15:30 — Bus back to Paphos. Visit the Byzantine Museum at the Bishop's Palace (€2) — an excellent collection of icons spanning 800 years. The oldest pieces (10th–11th century) are remarkable for their survival.
- ●19:00 — Meze dinner at a local taverna. A traditional Cypriot meze delivers 20+ small dishes — dips, grilled meats, halloumi, calamari, village bread, fresh vegetables — for one fixed price around €18–22 per person. The definitive way to eat in Cyprus. Ask for the meze at any family-run taverna away from the main tourist strip.
- ●08:30 — Pick up hire car (€25–35/day from Paphos Airport). Drive the B6 mountain road toward Troodos village — the landscape shifts from citrus groves to pine forest within 30km. The drive itself is part of the experience: hairpin bends, cedar-covered ridgelines, and villages that look unchanged since the 1960s.
- ●10:30 — Kykkos Monastery (free entry). The wealthiest and most important monastery in Cyprus, founded in the 11th century, rebuilt and gilded over the centuries into something extraordinary. The gold-mosaic interior, the icon of the Virgin Mary attributed to Saint Luke (kept behind a silver cover and never shown to the public), and the mountain setting at 1,318m are all worth the drive alone.
- ●12:30 — Cedar Valley picnic. Buy bread, halloumi, olives, and local sausage from a mountain village shop for €8 and eat surrounded by endemic Cyprus cedar trees — one of only three places on earth where this tree grows naturally. Mouflon (wild mountain sheep) roam here freely.
- ●14:00 — Omodos village. A UNESCO-recognised wine village with a cobblestone square, a Byzantine monastery (free entry), and wine cellars charging €3–5 for tastings of commandaria — the world's oldest named wine, produced in these hills since at least 800 BC. Try the dry Maratheftiko red as well.
- ●17:00 — Return via the B6 coastal road. Stop at Aphrodite's Rock (Petra tou Romiou) — the dramatic coastal stack where legend says Aphrodite rose from the sea. Pull into the lay-by 45 minutes before sunset. The rock face glows orange and the sea turns gold. Completely free and one of the most photogenic spots in the Mediterranean.
- ●09:00 — Drive or take the intercity bus (€5, 1.5 hours) to Limassol — Cyprus's most cosmopolitan city, with a rapidly developing marina and a well-preserved old town that repays a morning's walking.
- ●10:00 — Limassol Medieval Castle (€4.50). Richard the Lionheart married Berengaria of Navarre here in 1191 on his way to the Third Crusade — one of the odder footnotes in English history. Good views from the battlements over the port. The Cyprus Medieval Museum inside is included in the entry fee.
- ●12:00 — Lunch in the Limassol Old Market (Agora) — a restored covered market with stalls selling fresh halloumi, loukoumades (honey doughnuts), souvlaki and local produce. A meal comes in at €8–12. The market building itself is worth seeing even if you just pick up a snack.
- ●14:00 — Drive the wine route through Koilani and Vouni villages in the Limassol wine region. These hillside villages produce some of Cyprus's best dry reds from the indigenous Maratheftiko grape. Tasting at a family winery costs €5–8 and usually includes commandaria and a dry white from the Xynisteri grape.
- ●19:00 — Dinner in Limassol at Mahon Seafood — one of the best fish restaurants on the island. Sheftalies (Cypriot pork sausages spiced with herbs), grilled octopus and fresh-caught sea bass from €15–20. The waterfront setting below the old town is excellent. Book ahead for weekends.
- ●08:00 — Drive or take the bus (€4.50, 1.5 hours) from Limassol to Nicosia (Lefkosia) — the world's last divided capital. Park outside the Venetian walls and enter the old city on foot. The 16th-century star-shaped walls built by Venice are among the best-preserved Renaissance fortifications in existence.
- ●09:30 — Cross the Ledra Street pedestrian checkpoint into North Nicosia. Bring your passport — the crossing is free and takes 5 minutes. On the other side: a completely different atmosphere, Ottoman architecture, the Selimiye Mosque (formerly the Gothic Cathedral of Saint Sophia, now a mosque), the Great Bedesten covered market, and the Buyuk Han caravanserai. Significantly cheaper food and coffee. Spend 1.5 to 2 hours.
- ●11:00 — Return to the Republic side via Ledra Street. Cyprus Museum (€4.50) — the island's finest archaeological collection, spanning Neolithic through to Roman periods. The terracotta warrior figures from Marion (7th century BC), the bronze Horned God from Enkomi, and the enormous terracotta army assembled from hundreds of votive figures are all exceptional.
- ●13:00 — Final lunch in Nicosia's old town at Zanettos — the oldest restaurant in Nicosia, operating since 1938. No menu: they bring you whatever they have that day — meze dishes, grilled meats, dips, fresh salad. €15 per person including house wine. A genuine institution.
- ●15:00 — Drive to Larnaca Airport (LCA, 45 minutes from Nicosia) or Paphos Airport (PFO, 1.5 hours). If flying from LCA, you have time for a coffee in the old town before heading out. Allow at least 2 hours before your flight for check-in and security.
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🏛️ Cyprus Landmark Guide
The most important sites in order of priority. Entry fees as of 2026. Sites administered by the Department of Antiquities accept cash only at most locations — carry small notes.
Paphos Archaeological Park
The crown jewel of Cyprus archaeology. The floor mosaics in the Houses of Dionysus, Theseus and Aion are among the finest Roman mosaics in the world — 1,700-year-old mythological scenes in extraordinary condition. The park is large (over 1km across) and takes 2 hours to cover properly. Open daily 8am–7:30pm (May–Oct) / 8am–5pm (Nov–Apr).
Aphrodite's Rock (Petra tou Romiou)
The coastal stack where legend holds that Aphrodite rose from the sea. 25km east of Paphos on the B6 road. The lay-by viewing area is free and accessible around the clock. Best visited 45 minutes before sunset when the limestone glows orange. Swimming is possible from the pebble beach below but the currents can be strong.
Kykkos Monastery
Founded in the 11th century and rebuilt repeatedly, Kykkos is the most important monastery in Cyprus. The gold-mosaic interior is dazzling. The monastery museum (€2.50) contains important religious artefacts. The adjacent Throni hilltop shrine gives panoramic Troodos views. At 1,318m elevation — take a layer in spring and autumn.
Nicosia UN Buffer Zone Crossing
The Ledra Street pedestrian checkpoint lets you cross freely between the Republic of Cyprus and Northern Cyprus. Open daily. On the north side: the Selimiye Mosque (former Gothic cathedral), Buyuk Han caravanserai, Great Bedesten market. The buffer zone itself — the strip of no-man's-land between the two checkpoints — has been frozen since 1974 and is maintained by UN peacekeepers.
Limassol Castle
The medieval castle where Richard the Lionheart married Berengaria of Navarre in 1191. Built originally in Byzantine times and expanded by the Lusignan dynasty. The Cyprus Medieval Museum inside is well-curated. The castle is in the heart of the Limassol old town — combine with the Old Market (Agora) and a walk along the new waterfront promenade.
Ayia Napa & Fig Tree Bay (Protaras)
Fig Tree Bay in Protaras is consistently ranked among the top 10 beaches in Europe — fine white sand, calm clear water, and sheltered cove. 10 minutes from Ayia Napa town. Ayia Napa itself is known for beach clubs and nightlife (the club scene is concentrated in the town centre). Fig Tree Bay is calmer and better for families and couples.
Troodos Painted Churches (UNESCO)
Nine Byzantine churches in the Troodos mountains are UNESCO World Heritage Sites for their medieval frescoes — some of the finest Byzantine painting outside Istanbul. The churches are spread across the mountains and require a hire car. Asinou Church (near Nikitari) and Panagia tou Araka (near Lagoudera) are the two most accessible and most impressive.
Cyprus — Ruins, Mountains & Mediterranean Coast
Paphos mosaics, Troodos cedar forests, Limassol waterfront, and Aphrodite's Rock.
📸
Paphos Archaeological Park Mosaics
Paphos Archaeological Park Mosaics
The 1,700-year-old Roman floor mosaics in the House of Dionysus — some of the finest surviving Roman mosaics in the world.
💰 Budget Breakdown
Cyprus is mid-priced for Europe — cheaper than France or Italy, more expensive than Greece or Portugal. Entry fees at archaeological sites are very reasonable. The biggest variable costs are accommodation and hire car.
| Category | Budget | Mid-Range | Luxury |
|---|---|---|---|
| 🏨 Accommodation (per night) | €20–35 (hostel / guesthouse) | €70–120 (3–4 star) | €250–600 (villa / 5-star) |
| 🍽️ Food (per day) | €15–25 (tavernas + meze) | €35–55 (restaurants + wine) | €100–200 (fine dining) |
| 🚗 Transport (per day) | €5–15 (buses + shared) | €25–40 (hire car + fuel) | €80–180 (private + boats) |
| 🏛️ Activities (per day) | €10–20 (archaeological sites) | €20–35 (guided tours) | €100–200 (private guides) |
| TOTAL (per day) | €55–75 | €120–170 | €300–500+ |
💚 Budget (€55–75/day)
Stay in Kato Paphos guesthouses or hostels, use intercity buses between cities, eat at local tavernas and order meze. All the major archaeological sites are accessible on this budget. Hire a car for day 3 only (Troodos) to keep transport costs down.
✨ Mid-Range (€120–170/day)
3–4 star hotels in Paphos and Limassol, hire car for the full trip, one or two guided tours (Paphos mosaics guide, Troodos painted churches). Dinner at proper restaurants with local wine. This is the most comfortable way to do Cyprus.
💎 Luxury (€300–500/day)
Clifftop villas or 5-star resorts (Amara Limassol, Columbia Beach Resort Pissouri), private archaeologist guides for Paphos, private boat charters for the Blue Lagoon, master-of-wine-led tasting tours in the Limassol wine region.
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🏨 Where to Stay in Cyprus
For a 5-day trip, Paphos is the best single base — it puts you within reach of the ruins, Troodos mountains, and Limassol. If you want to split, 2 nights in Paphos and 2 in Limassol works well, with Nicosia as a day trip on day 5.
Amara Limassol
5-star luxury · Limassol beachfront
One of the finest hotels in Cyprus — a sleek beachfront property on the Limassol coast with multiple pools, a world-class spa, and restaurants by notable chefs. Direct beach access and walkable to the Limassol old town. The benchmark for luxury in the south.
Columbia Beach Resort (Pissouri)
5-star resort · Pissouri Bay, between Paphos and Limassol
A beautifully designed clifftop resort on Pissouri Bay — one of Cyprus's most spectacular coves, halfway between Paphos and Limassol. The suites are large and elegant, the beach below is excellent, and Aphrodite's Rock is 15 minutes away. Ideal for couples and families wanting a base with character.
Castelli Hotel Nicosia
Boutique mid-range · Nicosia old town
A well-positioned boutique hotel inside the Venetian walls of Nicosia old town, within walking distance of the Ledra Street crossing, the Cyprus Museum, and the best restaurants in the capital. Clean, comfortable, and good value for Nicosia. Useful if you want to spend more than a day in the capital.
Budget Guesthouses — Kato Paphos
Budget · Kato Paphos
Several clean, well-located guesthouses and small hotels cluster around Apostolou Pavlou Avenue and the harbour area in Kato Paphos. These are within walking distance of the Archaeological Park, harbour, and Tombs of the Kings. Book 6–8 weeks ahead for April–June and September–October.
🍽️ Where to Eat in Cyprus
Cypriot food is excellent and good value at local tavernas. The meze (€18–22/person for 20+ dishes) is the definitive way to eat. Always choose family-run places two streets back from any harbour or tourist strip — the difference in quality and price is significant.
Mahon Seafood — Limassol
Seafood · Limassol old port area
One of the best fish restaurants in Limassol, known for fresh-caught sea bass, grilled octopus, and sheftalies (Cypriot herb sausages). The grilled fish comes simply prepared with lemon and capers — letting the quality speak. Mains €14–22. Book ahead on weekends. Worth making a special trip to Limassol for.
Meze Taverna — Paphos
Traditional meze · Kato Paphos
A straightforward, family-run taverna delivering a full Cypriot meze for €18–20 per person. The spread includes tahini, taramosalata, hummus, grilled halloumi, calamari, sheftalies, kleftiko, stuffed vine leaves, village salad and more. Generous portions, no tourist pricing. Ask for a carafe of local commandaria to finish.
Zanettos — Nicosia
Traditional Cypriot · Nicosia old town
The oldest restaurant in Nicosia, operating since 1938. No written menu — you eat what they have, which changes daily. Expect a flowing procession of meze dishes: dips, grilled meats, halloumi, fresh vegetables, and house-made desserts. Around €15/person including house wine. A genuine Nicosia institution with a loyal local following.
Mountain Village Kafeneion — Troodos
Local kafeneion · Omodos or Platres
Every mountain village in the Troodos has a kafeneion (traditional coffee house) serving simple grilled food — souvlaki, halloumi, loukanika sausage, and village bread with olive oil. Meals are €8–12 and genuinely local. In Omodos, the square kafeneions also pour commandaria by the glass for €2–3. Don't skip this.
Where to Stay in Cyprus
Verified prices · Instant booking
Amara Limassol
5-star luxury · Limassol beachfront
Columbia Beach Resort Pissouri
5-star · Pissouri Bay clifftop
Castelli Hotel Nicosia
Boutique · Nicosia old town
Budget Boutique Paphos
Budget · Kato Paphos
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Things to Do in Cyprus
Tours & experiences · Instant confirmation
Paphos Archaeological Park Guided Tour
Must doTroodos Mountains & Kykkos Monastery Day Tour
Top ratedCyprus Wine Tasting — Commandaria & Limassol Region
Unique experienceNicosia Walking Tour — Divided Capital
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❌ Mistakes to Avoid in Cyprus
Relying on public transport for Troodos
Bus services to the Troodos Mountains are infrequent and stop running by mid-afternoon. Without a hire car you cannot visit Kykkos Monastery, Cedar Valley, or the wine villages independently. Hire a car for at least day 3 — from €25/day it is the single best investment of the trip.
Skipping Nicosia because it is inland
Nicosia is one of the most historically fascinating cities in Europe — the only divided capital in the world, with a UN Buffer Zone running through its old town. The Ledra Street crossing into North Cyprus, the medieval streets, and the Cyprus Museum are unmissable. Most beach-holiday visitors skip it entirely. Their loss.
Visiting in July or August without planning
Cyprus in midsummer is brutally hot (38–42°C) and prices spike 40–60%. April to June and September to October give perfect weather, lower prices, and far fewer crowds at the archaeological sites. The wildflower season in April makes the Akamas Peninsula particularly spectacular.
Ordering individual dishes instead of meze
A Cypriot meze (€18–22/person) delivers 20+ small dishes and is the definitive way to eat on the island. Ordering à la carte at tourist restaurants near the harbours costs more and gives you less variety. Always ask for the meze at any family-run taverna — not every place advertises it on the board outside.
Buying halloumi at the supermarket
Supermarket halloumi is pasteurised and tastes nothing like the fresh village cheese made from sheep and goat milk. Stop at a village kafeneion in the Troodos or the Limassol wine villages and ask about fresh halloumi — you can buy it directly from local producers for €3–5 per piece and the difference is extraordinary.
💡 Pro Tips for Cyprus
Taste commandaria at its source in Omodos
Commandaria is one of the world's oldest named wines, produced in the Troodos foothills since at least 800 BC. A tasting in Omodos or Koilani village costs €3–5 and beats any wine shop. Book tours of the Limassol wine region at getyourguide.com/s/?q=cyprus+wine&partner_id=PSZA5UI
Arrive at Aphrodite's Rock 45 minutes before sunset
Petra tou Romiou is on the B6 coastal road 25km east of Paphos. Pull into the free lay-by viewing area 45 minutes before sunset — the limestone face turns orange, the sea glows gold, and it is genuinely one of the most dramatic free experiences in the Mediterranean. Busy on weekends; arrive early.
Cross into North Cyprus for a half-day
The Ledra Street pedestrian checkpoint in Nicosia is open daily and free with a passport. North Nicosia has a completely different atmosphere: Ottoman architecture, Turkish coffee, much cheaper food, and the extraordinary Buyuk Han caravanserai. The Selimiye Mosque (formerly a Gothic cathedral) alone is worth the 5-minute crossing process.
Book Paphos accommodation early
Paphos has limited quality accommodation in the town centre close to the ruins (as opposed to the resort hotel strip further out). The best boutique hotels near the archaeological park and harbour fill quickly April–June and September–October. Book 6–8 weeks ahead. The resort strip hotels are always available.
Drive on the left and carry cash
Cyprus drives on the left (inherited from British colonial rule). Roads are excellent and English signage is everywhere. Most archaeological sites accept cash only — the Department of Antiquities does not reliably take cards at smaller sites. Carry €20–30 in small notes when exploring outside the cities.
Take a layer for the Troodos mountains
Even in June, the Troodos summit area (1,900m) can be 10–12°C cooler than the coast. In April and October, Kykkos Monastery at 1,318m will be noticeably chilly in the morning. Pack a light jacket. In January and February, you can ski at Mount Olympus and swim at a Paphos beach on the same day.
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