Lyon in 3 Days: Bouchons, Traboules & the Real France
France's best-kept secret — a UNESCO Renaissance old town, Roman amphitheatres on the hill, the world's best indoor food market, and a bouchon lunch for €18 that beats anything in Paris. The complete guide.
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Lyon is what happens when a city gets everything right and never boasts about it. A UNESCO-listed Renaissance quarter whose residents still use 500-year-old passageways as shortcuts. A food market that made Paul Bocuse. A bouchon tradition that feeds silk workers and Michelin inspectors at the same table.
⚡ What Lyon Actually Is
Lyon is France's second city in everything except publicity. Larger than Bordeaux, Marseille, and Nice in population; richer in food culture than Paris; older in recorded history than most European capitals. The Romans founded it as Lugdunum in 43 BC and made it the capital of Gaul — the Roman amphitheatres on Fourvière hill date to 15 BC and are still used for concerts today.
Vieux-Lyon — the Renaissance old town on the west bank of the Saône — is one of the largest Renaissance ensembles in Europe and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998. Its most distinctive feature is the traboule: a covered passageway that cuts through an apartment building, across a courtyard, up a spiral staircase, and emerges on a completely different street. There are over 230 of them in Lyon. Silk workers used them to transport bolts of fabric without rain damage; the French Resistance used them to escape the Gestapo.
The food is the reason most people come back. The bouchon lyonnais is a specific thing: a small, informal bistro with checkered tablecloths, a handwritten menu, wine in a clay pot, and cooking that the rest of France calls Lyonnais cuisine. Quenelles de brochet (fish dumplings in cream sauce), saucisson chaud, andouillette, salade lyonnaise — none of these exist anywhere the same way as they do here. Lyon has more Michelin-starred restaurants per capita than Paris and a covered food market (Les Halles Paul Bocuse) that is the finest in France.
2 hrs
TGV from Paris
Apr–Jun, Sep–Oct
Best Season
Since 1998
UNESCO Heritage
€45/day
Budget From
🌡️ Best Time to Visit Lyon
Apr–Jun — Spring — Best Season
Recommended
15–22°C, café terraces open, markets full of asparagus and strawberries, long daylight hours. The traboules are pleasant to explore without summer crowds. April and May are the ideal months — comfortable temperatures, low tourist numbers, and the city at its liveliest.
Sep–Oct — Autumn — Equally Good
Highly recommended
14–20°C, the Beaujolais harvest happens in September–October, and the city returns to a local pace after the tourist summer. September is prime time for the Beaujolais day trip — new vintage celebrations begin. October is excellent for food-focused travel.
Jul–Aug — Summer — Busy and Hot
Busy season
25–32°C, more tourists on the Vieux-Lyon cobblestones, and many local bouchons close for August holidays. That said, the city is still very pleasant — the Saône and Rhône riverbanks have pop-up beaches (Lyon Plage) and evening life is excellent.
Dec (Fête des Lumières) — December — Festival of Lights
Book 6 months ahead
The Fête des Lumières (4 nights in early December) transforms the entire city into a free open-air light installation — buildings, bridges, and squares projected with international light art. 2–3 million visitors across 4 nights. Book accommodation at least 6 months ahead. Outside the festival, December is cold (3–8°C) but atmospheric.
🚄 Getting to Lyon
Key detail: Lyon has two main railway stations — Lyon Part-Dieu (the main TGV hub, northeast of the city centre) and Lyon Perrache (older station at the south tip of the Presqu'île). TGV trains from Paris stop at Part-Dieu; metro line D connects both stations in under 10 minutes.
TGV from Paris (recommended)
Best optionParis Gare de Lyon → Lyon Part-Dieu: 2 hours exactly, €20–€60 depending on how far in advance you book. Up to 20 daily departures. Book on SNCF Connect (sncf-connect.com) at least 3 weeks ahead for the cheapest fares — €20 tickets sell out fast. The TGV is dramatically more convenient than flying once you account for airport time.
Fly to Lyon Saint-Exupéry (LYS)
From UK/EuropeDirect flights from London Heathrow, Amsterdam, Madrid, Rome, and several other European cities. The airport is 25km east of the city. Take the Rhônexpress tram (€16.90, 30 minutes) to Part-Dieu station. If flying from within France, the TGV is nearly always faster and cheaper door-to-door.
TGV from other French cities
Excellent connectionsMarseille → Lyon: 1h45 (€25–€55). Bordeaux → Lyon: 3h (€35–€80). Nice → Lyon: 2h40 (€30–€70). Strasbourg → Lyon: 3h10 (€40–€90). Lyon is at the crossroads of France's TGV network — most major cities are under 3 hours.
Drive from Paris or Geneva
Flexible for wine regionsParis → Lyon: 460km on the A6 motorway, 4–4.5 hours. Geneva → Lyon: 150km, 1.5 hours. Driving makes sense if you plan to continue to the Beaujolais wine region or the Alps. Parking in central Lyon is scarce and expensive (€25–€35/day at hotels) — park at a P+R on the metro line.
📅 3-Day Lyon Itinerary
Each day card is expandable. The itinerary is built around the bouchon lunch schedule — most serve the set menu only at midday (12:00–14:00). Plan your morning around being hungry at noon.
- ●9:00am — Start at the Lyon Tourist Office on Place Bellecour to collect the free traboule map. This is genuinely essential — the map shows which passageways are open to the public and their addresses. Without it, you will walk straight past most of them.
- ●9:30am — Vieux-Lyon on foot — wander the cobbled streets of the Saint-Jean, Saint-Paul, and Saint-Georges districts. The UNESCO listing covers the entire right bank of the Saône. Look for the traboule entrances: a door slightly ajar, a small plaque, or the distinctive Renaissance stairwell visible from the street.
- ●11:00am — Fourvière Basilica (free entry). Take the funicular (ficelle) from the underground Vieux-Lyon metro station — €1.90 with a standard TCL transit ticket. The basilica interior is covered floor to ceiling in 19th-century mosaics; the detail is extraordinary. From the esplanade, the view over Lyon is the best in the city.
- ●12:00pm — Roman Fourvière theatres (€4) — two theatres dating to 15 BC cut into the hillside just below the basilica. In June and July they host Les Nuits de Fourvière, a prestigious festival (check programme if visiting in summer). A walk between the two theatres takes about 20 minutes.
- ●1:30pm — Bouchon lunch in Vieux-Lyon. Order the set menu (entrée + plat + dessert, €18–22). Classic dishes: salade lyonnaise (frisée with lardons and poached egg), quenelle de brochet (fish dumpling in cream sauce), and tarte aux pralines (pink praline custard tart). Ask for a pot lyonnais of Beaujolais (46cl clay carafe, €5–7).
- ●3:30pm — Presqu'île afternoon — cross the Saône to the peninsula between the two rivers. Place des Terreaux has the Fontaine Bartholdi (by the sculptor of the Statue of Liberty) and the Hôtel de Ville. The Musée des Beaux-Arts (€8) occupies a former Benedictine abbey here — one of France's best art museums.
- ●7:00pm — Evening on Rue Mercière or the quais of the Saône — outdoor terrace bars, wine by the glass, and the illuminated façades of Vieux-Lyon across the water.
- ●9:00am — Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, the finest indoor food market in France. Go on a weekday morning when it's less crowded. Breakfast from the stalls: a slice of tarte aux pralines (€3), a Lyonnais sausage tasting, and a Saint-Marcellin cheese from a fromagerie. The fish counter alone is worth the visit. Total breakfast: €10–15.
- ●10:30am — Croix-Rousse hill — the old silk weavers' district north of the Presqu'île. The neighbourhood climbs steeply from the Saône and has a completely different atmosphere from Vieux-Lyon: 19th-century apartment blocks, independent coffee shops, street art, and a strongly local character. The Croix-Rousse traboules were built wider than those in Vieux-Lyon specifically to carry silk bales without rain damage.
- ●12:00pm — Sunday morning market on Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse (runs every morning Tuesday–Sunday, 7am–1pm) — one of France's best outdoor food markets. Cheese, charcuterie, seasonal vegetables, flowers, and the full range of regional produce from Rhône-Alpes.
- ●1:30pm — Bouchon lunch in the Croix-Rousse or Presqu'île. Try Café Comptoir Abel on Rue Guynemer (one of the oldest certified bouchons, founded 1928) or Daniel et Denise Saint-Jean. Both serve the full bouchon menu with excellent natural wines.
- ●3:30pm — Musée des Confluences (€9, free Sunday evenings) — Lyon's science and anthropology museum on the Confluence peninsula where the Saône meets the Rhône. The Coop Himmelblau building is an architectural landmark — translucent crystal and steel emerging from the water. Collections span natural history, human origins, and civilisation.
- ●6:00pm — Walk the Confluence riverfront — the neighbourhood has been entirely redeveloped over the last decade and has some of France's best contemporary architecture. The evening light on the two rivers from the confluence point is remarkable.
- ●8:00pm — Wine bar evening on Rue Saint-Jean or Rue du Bœuf in Vieux-Lyon — excellent selection of Côtes du Rhône, Beaujolais cru, and Mâcon blanc by the glass (€4–8).
- ●Option A: Beaujolais wine region day trip (recommended) — Regional train from Lyon Part-Dieu to Belleville-sur-Saône (€10 return, 40 minutes, hourly departures). From the station, the Beaujolais wine route is walkable or cyclable. The landscape: rolling green hills, medieval villages, and a dozen different appellations within a few kilometres. Most small producers (vignerons) welcome visitors for informal tastings, especially if you arrive mid-morning — call ahead when possible.
- ●Try the Beaujolais Crus — Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Morgon, Chiroubles — which are genuinely serious wines, nothing like the light Beaujolais Nouveau sold in supermarkets. A bottle direct from the producer costs €8–15.
- ●Option B: Pérouges medieval village — Bus from Lyon (change at Meximieux, total €5–8 return, 1 hour). A completely intact 13th-century walled hilltop village: cobbled lanes, half-timbered buildings, a market square unchanged since the Middle Ages. Used as a film set for period dramas. The galette de Pérouges (warm flat cake of butter, sugar, and lemon, €4) is the local specialty — eat it warm at the main square café.
- ●2:00pm — Return to Lyon by early afternoon. If time allows: the Gadagne Museums (€8) in a Renaissance mansion in Vieux-Lyon — Lyon history and a surprisingly good puppet theatre collection (Lyon was the capital of European puppet-making for two centuries).
- ●4:30pm — Final shopping on Rue de la République or in the covered Passage de l'Argue — Lyon has excellent independent food shops selling Beaujolais, saucisson sec lyonnais, coussins de Lyon (marzipan sweets), and praline tarts to take home.
- ●7:30pm — Farewell dinner at a traditional bouchon. Three-course set menu with a pot of Beaujolais: €22–28. Brasserie Georges on Cours de Verdun (open since 1836, the oldest continuously operating restaurant in Lyon) is an alternative for grandeur — the listed Art Deco interior seats 600 people and serves excellent choucroute, steak tartare, and house-brewed beer.
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🏛️ Lyon Landmark Guide
The most important sites in priority order. Entry fees as of early 2026. The Lyon City Card (€27/1 day, €38/2 days, €47/3 days) covers unlimited public transport and free entry to 25+ museums — good value if visiting two or more museums.
Vieux-Lyon Traboules
Over 230 covered passageways cut through the Renaissance apartment buildings of Vieux-Lyon. The free traboule map from the tourist office shows which are open and their addresses. Walk through a door, cross a courtyard, climb a spiral staircase, and emerge on a completely different street. Residents still live in these buildings — they are not a museum attraction, they are an active neighbourhood.
Fourvière Basilica
Built 1872–1896 on the hill where Romans worshipped. The interior is covered entirely in Byzantine mosaics — gold, lapis, and crimson from floor to vault — one of the most dazzling interiors in France. The esplanade outside has the best panoramic view over Lyon. Take the funicular (ficelle) from Vieux-Lyon metro: €1.90, 3 minutes.
Roman Fourvière Theatres
Two Roman theatres dating to 15 BC built into the Fourvière hillside — the Grand Théâtre (capacity 10,000) and the smaller Odéon. Still used for performances during Les Nuits de Fourvière festival in summer. The hilltop setting with views over the modern city is unusual and striking. 5-minute walk from the basilica.
Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse
The finest covered food market in France, named after Paul Bocuse — Lyon's defining chef — who shaped its modern identity. 59 stalls: fishmongers, charcutiers, cheese affineurs, pâtisseries, wine merchants. Tuesday to Sunday, 7am–10:30pm. Budget €15–25 to graze properly. Go before 11am for the best atmosphere.
Musée des Beaux-Arts
One of France's best fine art museums, housed in a former 17th-century Benedictine abbey on Place des Terreaux. Collections include Egyptian antiquities (exceptional), Greek and Roman sculpture, and European paintings from the Middle Ages to the 20th century — works by Rubens, Rembrandt, Monet, Picasso, and Rodin. The cloister sculpture garden is one of the most peaceful spaces in Lyon.
Croix-Rousse District
The old silk weavers' hill north of the Presqu'île. The canuts (silk weavers) who lived here operated the Jacquard looms that made Lyon the silk capital of Europe. The Maison des Canuts (€6.50) explains the history and has working looms. The neighbourhood market (Tuesday–Sunday mornings on Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse) is one of France's best. Almost untouristed.
Musée des Confluences
Lyon's science, natural history, and anthropology museum at the confluence of the Saône and Rhône. The building by Coop Himmelblau — translucent steel and crystal — is an architectural landmark. Collections cover natural history, human origins, civilisations, and futures. The permanent collection is free on Sunday evenings from 5pm.
Lyon — Traboules, Basilica & the Saône
The gastronomic capital's UNESCO Renaissance streets and hillside views.
📸
Vieux-Lyon Traboule Passageway
Vieux-Lyon Traboule Passageway
One of Lyon's 230+ traboules — covered passageways threading through Renaissance apartment buildings, still used by residents today.
💰 Budget Breakdown
Lyon is significantly cheaper than Paris for equivalent quality. The bouchon lunch set menu (€18–25 for three courses) is better value than most Paris bistros, and accommodation in Vieux-Lyon or the Presqu'île costs less than equivalent Paris arrondissements.
| Category | Budget | Mid-Range | Luxury |
|---|---|---|---|
| 🏨 Accommodation/night | €20–40 | €80–150 | €250–500 |
| 🍽️ Food/day | €15–25 | €40–65 | €90–200 |
| 🚇 Transport/day | €5–8 | €10–20 | €20–50 |
| 🏛️ Activities/day | €8–15 | €20–40 | €80–200 |
| TOTAL per day | €48–88 | €150–275 | €440–950 |
💚 Budget (€45–70/day)
Stay at Auberge de Jeunesse Lyon Vieux-Lyon (€25–35/night dorm), eat at bouchon set lunch menus (€18–22), use the metro and walk. Vieux-Lyon and Fourvière are free or nearly free. This is extremely comfortable for the price.
🌟 Mid-Range (€120–180/day)
Stay at Collège Hotel or a Presqu'île boutique (€90–140/night), eat at Daniel et Denise or Café Comptoir Abel (€35–50 for lunch), Lyon City Card for museums and transport (€38/2 days).
💎 Luxury (€300+/day)
Stay at Cour des Loges or Villa Florentine (€250–500/night), dine at Michelin-starred Takao Takano or Prairial (€90–130 tasting menu), private guided traboule tour (€100–150/person).
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🏨 Where to Stay in Lyon
The Presqu'île (the peninsula between the two rivers) and Vieux-Lyon are the best bases for first-time visitors. Part-Dieu (near the TGV station) is practical for arrivals but lacks atmosphere. The 5th arrondissement (Vieux-Lyon side) is the most romantic.
Cour des Loges
5-star · Vieux-Lyon (5th arr.)
A UNESCO-listed Renaissance courtyard hotel in the heart of Vieux-Lyon — four interconnected Renaissance mansions built around a glass-roofed atrium. The building itself is a traboule landmark. Les Loges restaurant serves creative French cuisine in a vaulted dining room. Book directly at courdesloges.com for best rates.
Hotel Le Royal Lyon
4-star · Presqu'île (2nd arr.)
Classic Belle Époque grand hotel on Place Bellecour — the largest pedestrian square in France and the geographic centre of Lyon. Perfectly positioned for Vieux-Lyon, the Presqu'île, and the metro. Well-maintained, professional service, excellent breakfast. MGallery collection.
Collège Hotel
Boutique · Vieux-Lyon (5th arr.)
A design hotel built inside a former school in Vieux-Lyon — school-themed décor (blackboards, wooden desks, lockers) executed with wit and quality. Excellent location two minutes from the main traboule streets. Rooftop terrace with Fourvière views. Popular with architects and design travellers.
Auberge de Jeunesse Lyon Vieux-Lyon
Hostel · Vieux-Lyon (5th arr.)
The best-located budget accommodation in Lyon — inside the Vieux-Lyon UNESCO zone, a short walk from the funicular and all the main traboule streets. Clean, well-run, sociable. Book at least 3 weeks ahead in summer and for the Fête des Lumières. Private rooms also available at €70–90/night.
🍽️ Where to Eat in Lyon
A genuine bouchon lyonnais has checkered tablecloths, a handwritten or chalkboard menu, wine served in a 46cl clay pot (a 'pot lyonnais'), and dishes like quenelles, andouillette, and cervelle de canut. If the menu is laminated and translated into five languages — keep walking.
Daniel et Denise
Certified bouchon · Saint-Jean, Vieux-Lyon
Chef Joseph Viola's flagship bouchon on Rue Tramassac — the most celebrated traditional bouchon in Lyon and holder of a Michelin Bib Gourmand. The quenelle de brochet is definitive: a cloud of pike mousseline in a lobster bisque sauce, made from scratch daily. Set lunch €25–35. Book at least a week ahead — this is not a drop-in.
Café Comptoir Abel
Certified bouchon · 2nd arr., Presqu'île
Founded in 1928, Café Comptoir Abel on Rue Guynemer is the oldest certified bouchon in Lyon. The atmosphere — belle époque fittings, red-checked tablecloths, handwritten slate menu — is genuinely unreconstructed. Excellent andouillette and saucisson chaud. Set lunch €22–28. The most atmospheric lunch in Lyon.
Brasserie Georges
Historic brasserie · Perrache
Open since 1836 — the oldest continuously operating restaurant in Lyon. The listed Art Deco interior seats 600 people under a soaring glass ceiling. The menu is brasserie classics: choucroute garnie, steak tartare, andouillette, and house-brewed beer (they have their own brewery). Not a bouchon, but an essential Lyon institution. Mains €18–28.
Les Halles Paul Bocuse (grazing)
Indoor market · 3rd arr., Part-Dieu
Not a restaurant but the best value eating in Lyon. Graze across 59 stalls: raw oysters from a fishmonger (€12 for six), a slice of tarte aux pralines (€3), jambon persillé from the charcutier, a wedge of Saint-Marcellin cheese still runny at room temperature. Weekday mornings only (closes at 1pm on weekdays, 10:30pm on Friday and Saturday evenings for the oyster bar crowd).
Takao Takano
Michelin-starred · 6th arr.
Japanese-French chef Takao Takano's tasting menu restaurant in the 6th arrondissement — one of the most technically refined kitchens in Lyon, with a 6-course lunch at €65 and an 8-course dinner at €120. The cooking is precise, seasonal, and genuinely surprising. Book at least 3 weeks ahead via the restaurant website.
Where to Stay in Lyon France
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Cour des Loges
5-star Renaissance courtyard · Vieux-Lyon
Hotel Le Royal Lyon
4-star Belle Époque · Place Bellecour
Collège Hotel
Boutique design · Vieux-Lyon
Auberge de Jeunesse Lyon Vieux-Lyon
Hostel · Vieux-Lyon UNESCO zone
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Things to Do in Lyon France
Tours & experiences · Instant confirmation
Lyon Vieux-Lyon Traboule Walking Tour
Best introLyon Bouchon Food Tour
Foodie essentialBeaujolais Wine Day Trip from Lyon
Day tripLes Halles Paul Bocuse Guided Market Tour
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❌ Mistakes to Avoid in Lyon
Rushing Through the Traboules
The traboules are not a tourist attraction with a clear entrance and exit — they are working passageways through private apartment buildings. The only way to find them is with the free map from the tourist office on Place Bellecour. Without it, you will walk straight past 95% of them. Allow a full morning to explore Vieux-Lyon slowly. Many are only accessible during daylight hours; the door should be pushed, not locked.
Eating at a Tourist Trap Bouchon
Lyon has France's highest restaurant density and its most aggressive tourist traps concentrated in Vieux-Lyon. A real bouchon has: checkered vichy tablecloths, a handwritten or chalkboard menu, wine served in a clay pot lyonnais, and dishes like quenelles, andouillette, and salade lyonnaise. If the menu has photographs, is laminated, or is displayed in five languages on a stand outside — walk away. The official 'Les Bouchons Lyonnais' certification plaque is a reliable guide.
Missing the Croix-Rousse Hill
Croix-Rousse is the most authentic neighbourhood in Lyon and almost no tourist visits it. The old silk weavers' district has the widest traboules in the city (built to carry silk bales), one of France's finest outdoor markets, and an entirely un-touristed local atmosphere even in peak season. It is a 20-minute walk from Place des Terreaux. Budget half a day on Day 2 — you will not regret it.
Skipping the Beaujolais Day Trip
The Beaujolais wine region is 40 minutes from Lyon by regional train and receives almost no international tourists. The landscape is rolling green hills with medieval villages; the wines — especially the Beaujolais Crus (Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Morgon) — are excellent and cost €8–15 direct from the producer. You will almost certainly be the only non-French visitor at any vineyard you walk into. The return train is €10. This is genuinely one of the most under-visited day trips in France.
💡 Pro Tips for Lyon
The Lyon City Card Is Excellent Value
The Lyon City Card (€27/1 day, €38/2 days, €47/3 days) covers unlimited TCL public transport (metro, tram, bus, funicular) and free entry to 25+ museums including the Musée des Beaux-Arts, Musée Gadagne, Musée des Confluences, and the Roman theatres. If visiting two or more museums and using the funicular, the 2-day card pays for itself by Day 1. Buy at the tourist office on Place Bellecour or online at en.lyon-france.com.
The Bouchon Set Lunch Is France's Best Value Meal
A traditional bouchon prix-fixe (entrée + plat + dessert) costs €18–25 and is served only at midday (12:00–14:00). The quality of cooking at a good bouchon — quenelles, saucisson chaud, andouillette — is better value than any equivalent Paris bistro. Arrive at 12:30pm on a weekday. Daniel et Denise and Café Comptoir Abel are the gold standard. Book ahead for both.
Fête des Lumières: Book 6 Months Ahead
The Festival of Lights (Fête des Lumières) runs for 4 nights in early December — the entire city is transformed into a free open-air art installation with light projections by international artists. It attracts 2–3 million visitors across the 4 nights. Every hotel in Lyon is fully booked by July for this weekend. If you want to attend, plan and book accommodation at least 6 months in advance.
Take the Funicular to Fourvière
The funicular (ficelle) from Vieux-Lyon metro station to Fourvière costs €1.90 with a standard TCL ticket (or free with the Lyon City Card) and takes 3 minutes. The walk up takes 20–25 minutes on a steep, exposed path. Save your energy for the basilica and Roman theatres. Two lines depart from the same underground station: one to Fourvière (Basilica), one to Saint-Just (Roman theatres).
Collect the Free Traboule Map First
The Lyon Tourist Office on Place Bellecour hands out a free traboule map showing all publicly accessible passageways with their addresses and opening hours. This is the single most useful piece of paper you will collect in Lyon. Do this before entering Vieux-Lyon — it transforms a pleasant walk into an entirely different experience.
Buy Beaujolais Cru, Not Beaujolais Nouveau
The Beaujolais sold in supermarkets worldwide is almost always Beaujolais Nouveau — light, fruity, and deliberately produced for early drinking. The Beaujolais Crus (Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Morgon, Brouilly) are entirely different wines: structured, age-worthy, and genuinely excellent. In Lyon's wine bars, always ask for a Beaujolais Cru. At Les Halles Paul Bocuse, the wine merchants have excellent selections at €8–18 per bottle.
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