Ghent in 3 Days: Altarpiece, Castle & the Real Belgium
The Mystic Lamb, Gravensteen Castle, Graslei waterfront, Gentse Stoverij beef stew, and 60,000 students keeping the bars loud after midnight. The complete guide.
Delhi · Visited: Kedarnath, Gangotri, Manali, Shimla, Rishikesh & more · April 2026 · 11 min read
Ghent is the Belgium that Bruges wishes it still was — a fully living medieval city with canals, guild houses, a 12th-century castle, and the most important painting in the history of northern European art, all surrounded by a genuine university city energy that keeps restaurants full, bars loud, and the streets interesting after 10pm.
⚡ What Ghent Actually Is
Most visitors come to Belgium for Brussels or Bruges and treat Ghent as an afterthought — a half-day side trip. This is a significant mistake. Ghent is Belgium's third-largest city and its most underrated: a medieval powerhouse that was one of the wealthiest cities in northern Europe during the 14th century, the birthplace of Charles V, a centre of the Flemish weaver guilds, and the city that gave the world both the Ghent Altarpiece and the European labour movement.
Unlike Bruges — which silted up in the 15th century and was essentially frozen in medieval amber — Ghent kept growing. The result is a living city with 60,000 university students, a thriving craft beer scene, Michelin-starred restaurants in converted warehouses, and the full intensity of medieval Belgium still visible in the castle, the waterfront guild houses, and the three Gothic towers that dominate the skyline.
Three days is the right amount. Enough for the Ghent Altarpiece at St Bavo's Cathedral, Gravensteen Castle, the Graslei waterfront, STAM city museum, the Vrijdagmarkt Saturday market, the Patershol restaurant quarter, and one lingering afternoon doing nothing on a canal-side terrace with a Gentse Tripel in hand. This guide covers all of it — real prices, real restaurants, and no fluff.
32 min
From Brussels
Apr–Jun, Sep–Oct
Best Months
3 Days
Duration
€50/day
Budget From
🌡️ Best Time to Visit Ghent
Apr–Jun — Spring — Best Season
Recommended
12–20°C, long daylight hours, canal-side terraces open, and flower markets in full swing. April and May are the sweet spot: fewer crowds than summer, excellent weather for walking the medieval centre. The Graslei waterfront is at its most photogenic with spring light on the guild houses.
Sep–Oct — Autumn — Excellent
Highly recommended
14–18°C, golden afternoon light on the waterfront, fewer tourists than summer, and all restaurants operating at full capacity. October has the best light for photography. Ghent's student population returns in September, filling the bars and creating the city energy that makes it special.
Jan (Light Festival) — January — Light Festival
Festival only
Ghent hosts its famous Light Festival (Lichtfestival) every 3 years in January — 40+ light installations transforming the medieval buildings and canals into an extraordinary spectacle. Cold (2–8°C) but worth it in festival years. Check dates at lichtfestival.be. Next edition: January 2027.
Jul–Aug — Summer — Busy
Book ahead
18–25°C, excellent weather but the city fills with tourists and accommodation prices rise significantly. The Ghent Festivities (Gentse Feesten) in late July transform the city into a 10-day free outdoor festival — extraordinary energy but book accommodation 3–4 months ahead. The Altarpiece sells out timed entries by 9am.
🚂 Getting to Ghent
Key detail: Ghent's main station is Ghent Sint-Pieters, 2km south of the medieval centre. Tram line 1 connects the station to Korenmarkt in the centre in 8 minutes. The station is on direct lines from Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp, and Amsterdam.
Train from Brussels (recommended)
Best optionBrussels Midi (Zuid) → Ghent Sint-Pieters: 32 minutes, €13.50. Trains run every 15–20 minutes all day. From Brussels Airport (Zaventem), take a direct train to Brussels Midi (20 min), then change for Ghent — total journey approximately 55 minutes. This is the standard arrival route for most international visitors.
Train from Bruges
Very easyBruges → Ghent Sint-Pieters: 25–30 minutes, €8.80. Trains run every 30 minutes. The Ghent–Bruges combination is one of Belgium's great short trips — very easy to do both cities in a week.
Train from Amsterdam
Easy connectionAmsterdam Centraal → Ghent Sint-Pieters: 2 hrs 15 min via Brussels, €35–€65 with Thalys or IC connections. Direct IC trains also run via Antwerp. Book at least 3 days ahead for the cheapest fares on the Belgian rail network (belgiantrain.be).
Drive from Brussels
Not recommended55km via E40 motorway, 45–60 minutes depending on traffic. Parking in Ghent's medieval centre is restricted — use the Park & Ride at Wondelgem or Sint-Pieters station and take the tram. City centre driving is actively discouraged and most streets are pedestrian or bike-only.
📅 3-Day Ghent Itinerary
Each day card is expandable. The itinerary is structured to front-load the major paid attractions early when queues are shortest, leaving afternoons for the waterfront and evenings for the Patershol restaurant quarter.
- ●09:00 — Gravensteen Castle (€14). The 12th-century castle of the Counts of Ghent rises straight out of the city centre like a stage set — fully intact stone towers, a moat, a drawbridge, and a dungeon. Book online to skip the queue. The rooftop gives unobstructed views across the entire medieval skyline: three Gothic towers in a single frame — St Bavo's Cathedral, St Nicholas's Church, and the Belfry. Allow 90 minutes.
- ●11:00 — Walk through the Patershol neighbourhood (free). The cobblestoned streets immediately north of Gravensteen are where Ghent's best restaurants cluster. A morning walk reveals the evening options: which konobas have handwritten menus, which terraces face south, and which chefs are writing the daily board on the chalkboard outside. Witloof (Belgian endive) dishes and Gentse Stoverij (Ghent beef stew braised in Tripel ale) appear on every board.
- ●12:30 — Lunch in Patershol: Gentse Stoverij with a glass of Gruut ale, €14–18. Ask if the stew is made in-house — the best versions simmer for 4+ hours with mustard and fresh herbs and are served with hand-cut frites.
- ●14:00 — Ghent Altarpiece at St Bavo's Cathedral (€12). Jan van Eyck's Adoration of the Mystic Lamb (1432) is the most complex and theologically layered painting in the history of northern European art. Stolen by Napoleon in 1794, seized by Prussia after WWI as war reparations, and two lower panels stolen in 1934 — one was never recovered until 2010. The recently restored polyptych is displayed in the Vijdt Chapel with dramatic lighting that reveals the extraordinary detail of van Eyck's oil-glazing technique. Allow 90 minutes — the theological programme alone deserves close attention.
- ●16:30 — Graslei and Korenlei waterfront (free). The most beautiful stretch of medieval waterfront in Belgium — 12th–16th century guild houses lining both banks of the Leie river at the Korenlei and Graslei quays. Find a bench facing the water or take a boat tour from the Graslei jetty (€8–10, 40 minutes) for the canal-level view of the guild facades. The late afternoon light on the stepped gables is excellent for photography.
- ●19:30 — Dinner in Patershol: book ahead for a proper konoba dinner. Budget options in the student quarter near Korenmarkt run €12–20 for a full meal. Try cuberdons — the cone-shaped violet-flavoured candy unique to Ghent — from the street vendors on Vrijdagmarkt for €3–4 a bag.
- ●10:00 — STAM Ghent City Museum (€12). A city history museum in the 15th-century Bijloke complex — former medieval hospital buildings with extraordinary preserved beamed ceilings that are themselves worth the entry fee. The history of Ghent from its founding on the confluence of the Leie and Scheldt rivers, through its role as the wealthiest city in the medieval Low Countries, to its extraordinary political history as the birthplace of the European labour movement. Allow 2 hours.
- ●12:30 — Lunch at Het Pakhuis (Schuurkenstraat 4, a cavernous 19th-century warehouse conversion, Belgian classics, €20–35/person). The interior alone — vaulted iron ceiling, brick arches, warm lighting — is worth a visit. Book ahead at lunch as locals fill it quickly. The waterzooi (Ghent-style chicken or fish stew) is the dish to order here.
- ●14:30 — Vrijdagmarkt square (free). Ghent's largest public square — historically the site of public executions, guild festivals, and workers' protests going back to the 14th century. The statue of Jacob van Artevelde at the centre marks where the leader of the weaver guilds addressed crowds of 60,000. On Saturday mornings it hosts one of Belgium's best food markets: fresh witloof, local cheeses, smoked meats, and street food from €2. The surrounding cafe terraces serve excellent afternoon beer.
- ●16:00 — Dulle Griet bar on Vrijdagmarkt. This is one of Belgium's most famous beer bars — 500+ Belgian beers including the iconic yard-glass Kwak, for which the bar requires you to leave one shoe as a deposit (returned with the glass). Entirely worth the experience. Gruut, the herb-brewed Ghent beer reviving a medieval recipe, is available here and at its own brewery on the canal.
- ●18:00 — Free evening walk: Sint-Niklaaskerk (13th century, free entry), the Belfry (€10, excellent city views from 91m), and the evening light on the Graslei guild houses before dinner.
- ●20:00 — Dinner at Publiek (Ham 39, 1 Michelin star). Modern Belgian cooking using hyper-local Ghent produce and natural wines. Seasonal tasting menu €55–75/person. Book at least 1 week ahead in shoulder season, 3 weeks in summer.
- ●08:30 — Saturday market at Vrijdagmarkt and Bevrijdingsplein (free). Fresh witloof, local cheeses, Belgian waffles from street vendors (€2–3), artisan bread, and the famous cuberdon vendors with their piled cones of violet candy. This is one of the best food markets in Belgium and a genuinely local Ghent experience — arrive by 9am before the best produce sells out.
- ●10:00 — Sint-Baafsplein and the three towers (free). The heart of medieval Ghent: St Bavo's Cathedral, the Belfry, and St Nicholas's Church visible simultaneously. The Belfry (€10) houses the original Ghent city bell Roland and offers the best aerial view of the medieval street plan. The sound of the carillon on the hour carries across the whole centre.
- ●12:00 — Lunch at Restaurant Vrijmoed (Vlaanderenstraat 22, 1 Michelin star). Belgium's most creative plant-forward tasting menu: a 5-course lunch (€65/person) that reinterprets Flemish ingredients with unusual technique. Natural wines. The lunch menu is considerably better value than the 7-course dinner. Book 1 week ahead minimum.
- ●14:30 — Afternoon on the canal: rent a bicycle (€10–15/day from multiple rental points near Sint-Pieters station or Korenmarkt) and follow the Leie canal south toward the Portus Ganda area where Ghent's medieval harbour was located. The canal path passes the university buildings, the Bijloke complex, and the more residential Ghent that most tourists never reach.
- ●17:00 — Aperitif on the Graslei waterfront with a Gentse Tripel (€4–6) as the evening light hits the guild house facades at the Graslei and Korenlei. This is the moment Ghent earns every compliment anyone has ever paid it.
- ●19:30 — Farewell dinner in the Patershol neighbourhood. If Vrijmoed and Publiek are booked, try Brasserie Pakhuis for reliable Belgian classics or one of the smaller konobas on Kraanlei or Penshuisstraatje for Gentse Stoverij and a final local beer.
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🏛️ Ghent Landmark Guide
The most important sites in priority order. The Ghent City Card (€30 for 48 hrs, €35 for 72 hrs) covers the Altarpiece, Gravensteen, STAM, canal boat, and public transport — it pays for itself if you visit more than 2 paid attractions.
Ghent Altarpiece — St Bavo's Cathedral
Jan and Hubert van Eyck's Adoration of the Mystic Lamb (1432) — the most important painting in the history of northern European art. A 12-panel polyptych of revolutionary oil-glazing technique and extraordinary theological complexity. Stolen by Napoleon, seized by Prussia, two panels stolen in 1934 (one not recovered until 2010). The restored panels are in the Vijdt Chapel. Timed entry in summer — book at visitgent.be.
Gravensteen Castle
The 12th-century Castle of the Counts — fully intact stone keep, moat, drawbridge, and dungeon in the heart of the city. The castle was used as a cotton mill, a prison, and an execution ground before restoration. The rooftop panorama is the best medieval skyline view in Belgium: three Gothic towers visible in a single sweep. Book at getyourguide.com/s/?q=Ghent+Belgium&partner_id=PSZA5UI for guided tours.
Graslei & Korenlei Waterfront
The most beautiful medieval waterfront in Belgium — guild houses from the 12th to 16th centuries lining both banks of the Leie at the old city harbour. The Grain Measurers' House, the Corn Measurer's House, the Free Boatmen's House — each facade tells the story of the trade guild that built it. Best at dawn before tour groups arrive, or at golden hour when the stepped gables catch the last light.
STAM Ghent City Museum
City history in a stunning 15th-century Bijloke hospital complex with original beamed ceilings. The history of Ghent's founding, its medieval textile empire, Charles V's birth in 1500, the Treaty of Ghent (1814), and Ghent's role in founding the Belgian labour movement. The building itself — particularly the refectory — is the best-preserved medieval interior in Ghent.
Vrijdagmarkt Saturday Market
Ghent's largest historic square has hosted public markets since the 14th century. The Saturday morning market is one of Belgium's best: fresh witloof, Ghent cheeses, smoked meats, artisan bread, and cuberdon candy vendors. The Jacob van Artevelde statue marks the spot where the weaver guild leader addressed 60,000 people in 1338. The surrounding cafe terraces are excellent for afternoon beer.
Patershol Restaurant Quarter
The cobblestoned neighbourhood north of Gravensteen is Ghent's densest concentration of good restaurants — over 40 restaurants in 4 streets. Former weavers' houses turned into konobas serving Gentse Stoverij, waterzooi, witloof gratin, and Flemish seasonal menus. An evening walk through Patershol without a reservation is the best way to choose dinner: the chalkboards outside tell you everything you need to know.
Ghent Light Festival (Lichtfestival)
Every 3 years in January, Ghent hosts one of Europe's great light festivals — 40+ installations by international artists transforming the medieval buildings and canals. The castle, the Graslei guild houses, the Cathedral, and the Belfry all participate. Cold (2–8°C) but extraordinary. Previous editions: 2018, 2021, 2024. Next: January 2027. Plan well ahead — hotels sell out within days of the announcement.
Ghent — Waterfront, Castle & the Mystic Lamb
Medieval Belgium at its most photogenic and most alive.
📸
Graslei Waterfront at Dawn
Graslei Waterfront at Dawn
The Graslei quay at dawn — guild houses from the 12th to 16th centuries reflected in the still Leie river before tourist boats arrive.
💰 Budget Breakdown
Ghent is significantly cheaper than Brussels for accommodation, and cheaper than Bruges for restaurants and activities. The main costs are the Altarpiece (€12), Gravensteen (€14), and dinner at a Patershol konoba (€14–25). The Ghent City Card (€30/48hrs or €35/72hrs) covers most paid attractions and public transport.
| Category | Budget | Mid-Range | Luxury |
|---|---|---|---|
| 🏨 Accommodation (per night) | €18–35 (hostel) | €90–160 (3-star canal hotel) | €200–450 (boutique) |
| 🍽️ Food (per day) | €12–22 (student brasseries) | €40–70 (brasseries + Michelin lunch) | €120–300 (two Michelin tables) |
| 🚌 Transport (per day) | €5–10 (tram + day trips) | €10–20 (tram + canal boat) | €50–180 (private car + boat) |
| 🏛️ Activities (per day) | €15–27 (castle + Altarpiece) | €30–55 (guided tours + STAM) | €100–300 (private curator tours) |
| TOTAL per day | €50–94 | €170–305 | €470–1,230 |
💰 Budget (€50–94/day)
Hostel 47 Ghent (dorm from €18/night), student brasseries and Patershol lunch specials, walking and trams everywhere. The Ghent City Card makes this tier even better value.
✨ Mid-Range (€170–305/day)
Ghent Marriott or a 3-star canal hotel (€90–160/night), dinner at Publiek or Het Pakhuis, one guided tour and the canal boat. The sweet spot for comfort without losing the Ghent atmosphere.
💎 Luxury (€470+/day)
1898 The Post (from €200/night, the most beautiful hotel in Ghent — a converted 19th-century post office), private art historian for the Altarpiece, Vrijmoed tasting menu, private canal boat hire.
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🏨 Where to Stay in Ghent
The medieval centre around Korenmarkt, Graslei, and Patershol is the ideal base — everything walkable in 15 minutes. Hotels in the historic core cost more but save significantly on transport and time. Book ahead in summer and during the Gentse Feesten (late July).
1898 The Post
Luxury boutique · Korenmarkt, city centre
The finest hotel in Ghent — a magnificently restored 19th-century neo-Gothic post office on Korenmarkt, directly above the tram stop and 3 minutes from Graslei. Grand staircases, original marble counters, and rooms with views of the medieval towers. The bar is one of Ghent's best. Book at booking.com?aid=2820480.
Ghent Marriott Hotel
4-star · Korenlei, directly on the canal
The Ghent Marriott sits on the Korenlei waterfront — canal views from the rooms, direct access to the Graslei medieval facades, and all the reliability of an international chain. The location is unbeatable: 5 minutes from Gravensteen, 8 minutes from St Bavo's. Book at booking.com?aid=2820480.
Hotel Harmony
Boutique 4-star · Kraanlei, canal-side
A beautifully converted 18th-century mansion on the Kraanlei canal — one of Ghent's quieter waterways, away from the main tourist flow but 10 minutes' walk from everything. Canal-view rooms available. Genuinely local atmosphere. Book at booking.com?aid=2820480.
Hostel 47 Ghent
Hostel · City centre
Well-run central hostel a short walk from Korenmarkt. Clean dorms and private rooms, communal kitchen, knowledgeable staff who know the city well. The best option for solo travellers and backpackers who want to be in the student energy of Ghent rather than isolated in a budget hotel on the ring road. Book at booking.com?aid=2820480.
🍽️ Where to Eat in Ghent
Ghent has one of Belgium's strongest restaurant scenes relative to its size — two Michelin-starred restaurants, excellent brasseries in converted industrial buildings, and the dense Patershol quarter where over 40 restaurants operate in a 4-street area. Book dinner in advance — particularly in Patershol, which fills up by 8pm every evening.
Restaurant Vrijmoed
1 Michelin star · Vlaanderenstraat 22
Belgium's most creative plant-forward tasting menu — a 7-course dinner (€90/person) and 5-course lunch (€65/person) that reinterprets Flemish ingredients with exceptional technique. Natural wines, seasonal produce sourced within 50km of Ghent. The lunch menu is outstanding value. Book 2 weeks ahead in summer, 1 week in shoulder season. Closed Sunday/Monday.
Publiek
1 Michelin star · Ham 39
Modern Belgian cooking with hyper-local Ghent produce and a natural wine list that changes monthly. The 5-course tasting menu (€55–75/person) is the way to eat here. The dining room is deliberately understated — the food carries the evening. Book 1 week ahead in low season, 3 weeks in summer. The wine pairing adds €35–45.
Het Pakhuis
Belgian brasserie · Schuurkenstraat 4
A cavernous converted 19th-century warehouse with a vaulted iron ceiling, brick arches, and warm lighting that makes it one of the most atmospheric dining rooms in Belgium. Belgian classics done properly: waterzooi (Ghent chicken stew), Gentse Stoverij, North Sea sole, Belgian cheese board. €25–40/person. Book ahead — locals fill every lunch service.
Patershol Konobas
Multiple · Patershol neighbourhood
The cobblestoned Patershol streets north of Gravensteen house over 40 restaurants at varying price points. Look for chalkboard menus outside: handwritten daily specials signal a kitchen working with seasonal produce. Gentse Stoverij properly made (€14–18), witloof gratin in mustard sauce (€12–15), and moules-frites in season. Budget €25–35 for a full dinner with beer.
Cuberdons — Vrijdagmarkt Vendors
Street food · Vrijdagmarkt
Cuberdons are the cone-shaped violet-flavoured candy unique to Ghent — a hard purple shell encasing a liquid violet centre. Two rival cuberdon vendors have faced each other across the Vrijdagmarkt for decades, each claiming to make the original. Buy a bag (€3–4) and decide for yourself. Available at the Vrijdagmarkt kiosks and at the Saturday market. The authentic Ghent snack.
Where to Stay in Ghent Belgium
Verified prices · Instant booking
1898 The Post
Luxury boutique · Converted neo-Gothic post office
Ghent Marriott Hotel
4-star · Korenlei canal waterfront
Hotel Harmony
Boutique 4-star · Kraanlei canal-side
Hostel 47 Ghent
Hostel · City centre
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Things to Do in Ghent Belgium
Tours & experiences · Instant confirmation
Ghent Medieval City Walking Tour
Best introGhent Canal Boat Tour
IconicGhent Altarpiece Private Art Tour
SpecialistBelgian Beer Tasting Ghent
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❌ Mistakes to Avoid in Ghent
Treating Ghent as a Half-Day Trip from Bruges
Most tourists visit Ghent for 3 hours as a day trip from Bruges and leave wondering what the fuss was about. The Ghent Altarpiece alone demands 90 minutes of unhurried time. The Patershol neighbourhood only reveals itself at dinner. The STAM is a full morning. Ghent rewards at least 2 full days based in the city — not a rushed afternoon from Bruges.
Skipping the Ghent Altarpiece
Many visitors walk past St Bavo's Cathedral without going in. The Ghent Altarpiece (€12) is the most stolen, most fought-over, most theologically layered painting in the history of northern European art — stolen by Napoleon, seized by Prussia, two panels stolen in 1934 (one not recovered until 2010). Not seeing it in Ghent is like visiting Florence and skipping the David.
Drinking Only Mainstream Belgian Beers
Jupiler and Stella Artois are Belgian but they tell you nothing about Belgian beer culture. Ask for Gentse Tripel, Gruut (brewed with herbs instead of hops — a medieval recipe revived in Ghent), or Dulle Griet's selection of 500+ beers. The difference between mass-market Belgian lager and an artisan Ghent beer is as wide as the difference between Godiva chocolate and a real Ghent praline.
Ignoring the Student City Energy
Ghent's 60,000 university students keep the city alive at a price point and energy level that Bruges has lost entirely. The Overpoort student strip is where locals eat, drink, and socialise — cheap, chaotic, and genuinely fun. Even if you are not a student, a €8 meal among Ghent's own residents is a better experience than a €28 tourist lunch near the Markt in Bruges.
Not Booking Restaurants in Advance
Ghent's good restaurants fill fast from June through August. Publiek and Vrijmoed (both Michelin) book out 2–3 weeks ahead in summer. The Saturday morning market draws a city-wide crowd from 8am. Book dinner in Patershol at least 2 days ahead in shoulder season and 1 week ahead in summer. The Altarpiece has timed entry slots that sell out by mid-morning in peak season.
💡 Pro Tips for Ghent
The Ghent City Card Covers Everything
The Ghent City Card (€30 for 48 hours, €35 for 72 hours) covers the Altarpiece, Gravensteen, STAM, canal boat, and unlimited tram and bus travel. If you plan to visit more than 2 paid attractions it pays for itself immediately. Available at the tourist office in the old post building on Korenmarkt, or online at visitgent.be before arrival.
Graslei at Dawn Is Free and Unforgettable
The Graslei waterfront at 7am — before tour groups arrive — is the medieval Belgium that paintings show. The guild houses reflect in the still canal, delivery boats occasionally load from the quays, and the morning mist sometimes sits on the Leie. Completely free and completely unlike the same view at 11am with 200 tourists.
Eat Gentse Stoverij at a Proper Patershol Konoba
Gentse Stoverij — Ghent beef stew braised in Ghent Tripel ale with mustard and fresh herbs — is the city's signature dish and is done properly only in the Patershol neighbourhood. Ask if it is made in-house. The best versions simmer for 4+ hours. Cost: €14–18 at a proper konoba with hand-cut frites and extra mustard on the side.
Book Gravensteen Online to Skip the Queue
Gravensteen Castle (€14) sells out timed entry slots in high season. Book at least 48 hours ahead online at historischehuizen.gent.be, or through the GetYourGuide link for a guided tour that includes commentary on the castle's use as a cotton mill, prison, and execution ground before restoration.
Rent a Bicycle for the Canal Paths
Ghent is flat and has an excellent cycling network. The canal paths along the Leie south of the centre — toward the Bijloke complex and the university buildings — are beautiful, quiet, and invisible to most tourists. Blue-Bike rentals are available at Sint-Pieters station (€4–5/day). The medieval centre itself is best walked.
Buy Cuberdons at the Vrijdagmarkt Kiosks
Cuberdons — the cone-shaped violet-flavoured candy unique to Ghent — are sold only at the rival kiosks on Vrijdagmarkt and nowhere else in the world. Two families have competed for the same spot for generations. Buy from both and decide which is better. A bag of 10 costs €3–4 and is the most authentically Ghent food purchase you can make.
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