Bikaner in 2 Days: Junagarh Fort, Camels & Rajasthan's Desert Gem
The fort that was never conquered, a temple full of sacred rats, India's only camel research farm, and the birthplace of bhujia. Bikaner rewards the travellers Jaisalmer ignores.
Junagarh Fort stopped me in my tracks. Not because of its size — because of what's inside. Gold-painted throne rooms, Belgian glass, mirror mosaic ceilings, and a World War II biplane in the courtyard. Nobody talks about this fort. That's their loss.
Most Rajasthan itineraries end at Jaisalmer. Bikaner is 330 km further — and that distance filters out the tour groups. What you get instead: one of the finest fort interiors in India, a living rat temple that's been operating for 600 years, the world's only government camel research farm, and the original bhujia. Two days here is time well spent.
Oct–Feb
Best Season
Never Conquered
Junagarh Fort
330 km
Distance from Jaipur
4.5★
Rating
🗓 Best Time to Visit
Bikaner sits in the Thar Desert. Timing your visit correctly is the difference between a comfortable trip and a genuinely unpleasant one.
Best Season
October–November is warm and pleasant (15–28°C). December–January is cold (4–15°C) but manageable with layers. January brings the Camel Festival. February is ideal — warm, clear skies, and the desert is at its most photogenic.
Getting Hot
March is still acceptable but temperatures rise fast. By April–May, Bikaner regularly hits 42–46°C. The Junagarh Fort tour becomes an exercise in survival. Sand storms are common. Avoid unless you have no choice.
Monsoon
Bikaner receives very little rainfall compared to the rest of India (desert climate). Summer heat lingers into September. The city functions but it's hot and dusty. October is when things finally improve.
⚡ Pick Your Plan
Same 2-day route, two comfort levels. Bikaner is one of the most affordable destinations in Rajasthan.
| Category | Budget | Comfortable |
|---|---|---|
| Stays | Old City guesthouses (₹500–900) | Heritage havelis, Bhanwar Niwas |
| Transport | Shared jeeps, autos, overnight train | Private taxi, Ola/Uber |
| Food | Local dhabas, kachori shops | Dhabas + heritage hotel dining |
| Total (pp) | Under ₹4,000 | ₹4,000–10,000 |
📅 Day-by-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Junagarh Fort interiors → Lalgarh Palace exterior → Kote Gate bazaar. Day 2: Karni Mata rat temple → Camel Research Farm → camel safari → Bhandasar Jain Temple → depart.
- ●Overnight train from Delhi or Jaipur → Arrive Bikaner morning → Check in Old City guesthouse (₹500–900). Bikaner Junction is central — auto-rickshaw to the Old City is ₹80.
- ●Breakfast: Bikaner kachori at a local shop near the fort. The kachori here is smaller, crispier, and spicier than the Jaipur version — served with tangy tamarind chutney. This is the local breakfast of choice.
- ●Junagarh Fort: Built in 1589, it is the only major Rajput fort in Rajasthan that is not on a hilltop. The Rathores of Bikaner built it on flat ground and defended it through design rather than elevation — it has never been captured in 500 years of warfare.
- ●Fort interior highlights: Anup Mahal — the gold-painted throne room with red lacquerwork, considered one of the finest examples of Rajput interior design. Karan Mahal — built to celebrate a victory over Aurangzeb. Phool Mahal — the hall of flowers with intricate mirror mosaic work.
- ●Don't miss the Fort Museum wing: it contains a World War II-era biplane gifted to the Bikaner royal family. Seeing a vintage aircraft inside a 16th-century fort courtyard is genuinely surreal. Allow 2.5–3 hours for the fort.
- ●Afternoon: Walk to Lalgarh Palace (2 km from the fort) — a red sandstone Indo-Saracenic palace built for Maharaja Ganga Singh in 1902. Part of it is now a heritage hotel. The exterior and grounds are open to walk around even if not staying.
- ●Evening: Kote Gate bazaar — the old city market for bhujia shopping (see Tips section), Rajasthani textiles, and silverware. The narrow lanes of the old city are best explored on foot at dusk.
- ●Morning: Karni Mata Temple at Deshnoke (30 km from Bikaner city). Take a shared jeep from the bus stand (₹40 each way, 45 minutes). The temple is dedicated to Karni Mata — a 14th-century mystic revered as an incarnation of Durga.
- ●The rat temple: 20,000 rats (called 'kabbas') are protected and revered at the temple. They roam freely across the marble floor. If one runs across your foot, it is considered extremely auspicious. Spotting a white rat (there are very few) brings the greatest luck. Remove shoes at the entrance.
- ●Return to Bikaner → NRCC National Research Centre on Camel: India's only government camel research farm, open to visitors (free entry). You can see different camel breeds, learn about camel milk products (the farm sells camel milk ice cream), and watch the feeding sessions.
- ●Afternoon camel safari in the dunes outside the city (1 hour, ₹400–600/person). Book through your guesthouse for vetted operators. The dunes near Bikaner are less visited than Jaisalmer — you often have them to yourself.
- ●Bhandasar Jain Temple: A 5-storey 15th-century Jain temple with an extraordinary origin story — it is said that ghee (clarified butter) was mixed into the mortar during construction. The walls still seep ghee on hot days. The interior features exceptional mirror work and gold leaf.
- ●Depart Bikaner. Overnight train back to Delhi or Jaipur. Budget: ₹1,600 total for Day 2.
🏰 Top Sights in Detail
Bikaner rewards slow exploration. Each sight here has a story that most guidebooks only skim.
Junagarh Fort
Open 10am–4:30pm, entry ₹100 (Indians) / ₹300 (foreigners). Audio guide strongly recommended (₹150 extra). The fort complex is vast — the guided tour takes you through 37 palaces and temples spanning 400 years of architecture. The Anup Mahal's gold-painted ceiling is the single most impressive room interior you'll see in Rajasthan.
Karni Mata Temple, Deshnoke
Open sunrise to sunset. Free entry. Shoe storage available at the entrance. The temple is 30 km from Bikaner — take a shared jeep (₹40) or auto (₹300 return). Visit early morning (7–9am) or late afternoon (4–6pm) to avoid peak heat. The temple is busy on Navratri — plan accordingly.
NRCC Camel Research Farm
Open 3pm–5pm only for public visits (morning sessions for researchers). Free entry. Located 8 km from the city centre. Auto: ₹150 return. The farm has 250+ camels including rare breeds. The camel milk ice cream kiosk is a genuine highlight — camel milk is lower in fat than cow milk and has a slightly salty, distinctive flavour.
Bhandasar Jain Temple
One of Bikaner's most undervisited gems. Built by a merchant named Bhandsa in the 15th century. The 5-storey structure took 50 years to complete. The ghee-in-mortar claim is local legend but the yellow staining on the walls in summer heat is real. Entry free, small donation expected. Open 8am–5pm.
Gajner Palace & Wildlife Sanctuary
30 km from Bikaner on the Jaisalmer road. The palace sits on an artificial lake and the grounds form a wildlife sanctuary with blackbuck, chinkara, and wintering demoiselle cranes (October–February). Entry to the sanctuary: ₹50. The palace itself is now a heritage hotel but day visits to the grounds are permitted.
Junagarh Fort's Anup Mahal: 500 years old, never conquered, and more ornate than anything you've seen in Jaipur. The gold-painted throne room alone justifies the detour to Bikaner.
💰 Budget Breakdown
Budget
Under ₹4,000
per person
Comfortable
₹4,000–10,000
per person
* All prices per person. Does not include travel to/from Bikaner. Junagarh Fort and NRCC Camel Farm are the primary paid attractions. Bhandasar Jain Temple and Lalgarh Palace grounds are free.
Where to Stay in Bikaner
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❌ Mistakes to Avoid
Skipping Junagarh's interior tour
Many visitors look at the fort from outside and move on. The entire value of Junagarh is inside — the throne rooms, the museum, the aircraft. Pay for the guided tour (or audio guide). The exterior is relatively plain; the interior is extraordinary.
Visiting Karni Mata at midday in summer
The temple at Deshnoke is 30 km from Bikaner and gets extremely hot in peak hours. Visit early morning or late afternoon. The rats are more active in cooler temperatures and the experience is less crowded.
Buying bhujia from tourist shops near the fort
The bhujia sold in tourist-facing shops near Junagarh is overpriced and often made for the tourist market. Go to the wholesale shops near Kote Gate or the Haldiram's Bikaner outlet (the original — different from the Delhi chain). Buy in bulk.
Skipping the NRCC Camel Farm
It sounds like a side attraction but it's genuinely one of the most unusual things you can see in India. The farm only opens to public visitors 3–5pm — don't miss the window. Camel milk ice cream alone is worth the trip.
Coming in summer (May–July)
Bikaner's desert climate means summer temperatures regularly exceed 45°C. The sand radiates heat well into the evening. October–February is the only comfortable window. March and September are borderline acceptable.
Not confirming train/bus connections in advance
Bikaner has good rail connections to Jaipur, Delhi, and Jodhpur but trains book up fast in peak season (Oct–Feb). Book your onward journey the moment you book your Bikaner hotel.
💡 Pro Tips
Junagarh: Better Than Jaisalmer Fort?
Most travelers choose Jaisalmer over Bikaner. Junagarh's interiors — gold-painted throne rooms, mirror work, Belgian glass, and the WWII era aircraft — are arguably more impressive. And there are far fewer tourists.
Karni Mata Temple Etiquette
Remove shoes before entering (free shoe storage). Rats are sacred — do not harm them. If one runs across your foot, it's considered extremely auspicious. Avoid peak morning hours (8–10 AM) when it's most crowded.
Bikaner Bhujia: The Original
Bikaner is the birthplace of bhujia (crispy moth bean snack). The best: Bikanervala original outlet, Haldiram's Bikaner (different from the Delhi chain), or the wholesale shops near Kote Gate. Buy 2 kg minimum for gifts.
Camel Safari Tips
The sand dunes near Bikaner (Gajner, 30 km) are better for photography than the tourist-heavy dunes at Jaisalmer. Sunrise safaris (5:30 AM) are magic. Book through your hotel for vetted operators.
Best Train from Delhi
Bikaner Superfast Express overnight from Delhi (8–9 hrs) or Intercity from Jaipur (4 hrs). Bikaner Junction is central — auto to Old City is ₹80.
Where to Stay in Bikaner
Budget: Vinayak Guest House (₹600–900), dharamshalas near the fort. Mid-range: Hotel Bhanwar Niwas (heritage haveli, ₹2000–3000). Splurge: Laxmi Niwas Palace (Maharaja's guesthouse, ₹8000+).
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❓ Frequently Asked Questions
Bikaner — Highlights
The best of Bikaner in photos.
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Bikaner Landscape
Bikaner Landscape
The stunning landscapes of Bikaner.
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