Banff in 5 Days: Moraine Lake, Icefields Parkway & the Canadian Rockies
Lake Louise at leisure, Moraine Lake at sunrise, the Icefields Parkway in full, Johnston Canyon, elk at dusk — the complete 5-day guide with real C$ costs.
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Banff at 5:30am — the first shuttle to Moraine Lake pulling away in darkness, arriving to an electric-blue lake turning gold as the sun clears the Valley of Ten Peaks, not another voice anywhere — is one of those rare travel moments that matches every photograph you've seen and then surpasses them.
⚡ What Banff Actually Is
Banff is Canada's first national park — established in 1885 after railway workers discovered the Cave and Basin hot springs and the Canadian Pacific Railway realised the commercial potential of the mountains. What started as a 26-square-kilometre hot springs reserve is now 6,641 square kilometres of UNESCO World Heritage–listed Rocky Mountain wilderness.
The town of Banff sits at 1,383m elevation on the floor of the Bow Valley, surrounded by peaks that rise to over 3,000m. The Bow River runs through it. Lake Louise — 57km north up the valley — is the most photographed lake in North America. Moraine Lake, 14km further, is the one on the old Canadian twenty-dollar bill. The Icefields Parkway connects Banff to Jasper along a 230km corridor of glaciers, turquoise lakes, and active wildlife that National Geographic once called "the world's most spectacular highway."
Five days lets you do Banff properly: town orientation on Day 1, Moraine Lake and Lake Louise on Day 2, Icefields Parkway in full on Day 3, Johnston Canyon and Vermilion Lakes wildlife on Day 4, and Ha Ling Peak in Canmore before the Calgary flight on Day 5. That's the structure this guide follows.
YYC Calgary
Fly into
Jun–Sep / Dec–Mar
Best Season
6,641 km²
Park Size
C$80/day
Budget From
🌡️ Best Time to Visit Banff
Jun–Sep — Summer — Hiking & Lake Colour
Peak season
The lakes reach maximum colour (electric blue-green from glacial flour) by mid-June. All trails are accessible from July. Moraine Lake shuttles and Lake Louise crowds peak in July–August. September is arguably the best month: larches turn gold, crowds drop 40%, elk enter rut. Book shuttles by January for July–August.
Dec–Mar — Winter — World-Class Skiing
Best value
Banff Sunshine Village, Lake Louise Ski Resort, and Mt Norquay offer exceptional skiing December through April. The town is atmospheric under snow, hotel rates drop by 30–50% vs summer, and Lake Louise partially freezes for skating. Icefields Parkway is driveable with winter tyres. Wildlife is still active.
Apr–May — Spring Shoulder — Quieter & Cheaper
Wildlife window
Snow lingers on high trails until late May. Moraine Lake road is closed until early June. But wildflowers appear in the valley from late April, waterfalls are at maximum volume from snowmelt, and the park is dramatically less crowded than summer. Wildlife very active: bears emerge from dens in April.
Oct–Nov — Autumn Shoulder — Larch Season
Larch season
Early October is larch season: the subalpine larches around Larch Valley (above Moraine Lake) turn brilliant gold. One of the most spectacular autumn displays in North America. The Moraine Lake road closes mid-October. After mid-October: quietest period of the year, cheapest hotels, ski season not yet open.
✈️ Getting to Banff
Key detail: Banff has no airport. All international arrivals fly into Calgary International Airport (YYC), 128km east. The drive is 1.5 hours on the Trans-Canada Highway. The Banff Airporter shuttle runs door-to-door from YYC terminal to Banff hotels.
Banff Airporter Shuttle (recommended)
Best optionYYC → Banff: 1.5 hrs, CAD 74–82 one-way per person. Runs multiple departures daily from the airport. Book online at banffairporter.com. Door-to-door to Banff hotels. The most convenient option for those without a rental car. Return trip same price.
Rental Car from Calgary YYC
Most flexibleDrive yourself on the Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1), 1.5 hrs. All major rental companies at YYC. A car gives flexibility for Icefields Parkway, Johnston Canyon, and Canmore. Note: a Parks Canada pass (CAD 11.70/person/day or CAD 72.25 annual) is required at the park gate. In winter, winter tyres are mandatory.
Brewster Express / Pursuit Bus
Budget optionScheduled coach service from YYC to Banff (CAD 35–55 one-way). Less frequent than the Airporter but cheaper. Also serves Lake Louise. Good option if arriving midday — check timetables at banffjasper.com/brewster.
From India — Visa & Flight
Plan aheadIndian passport holders require a full Canadian Temporary Resident Visa (TRV) — not an eTA. Apply on the IRCC portal (canada.ca), fee CAD 100 + CAD 85 biometrics. Processing: 4–16 weeks — apply at least 3 months ahead. Direct flights: Air Canada and Air India fly Delhi–Calgary YYC non-stop (10–11 hrs). Connecting via London, Amsterdam, or Toronto is also common.
📅 5-Day Banff Itinerary
Each day card is expandable. Prices shown in Canadian dollars (CAD / C$) with approximate USD equivalents where helpful. The itinerary is paced for a first visit — book the Moraine Lake shuttle before anything else.
- ●Arrive from Calgary YYC (1.5 hrs by Brewster Express shuttle, CAD 35–55 one-way, or Banff Airporter, CAD 74–82). Check into HI Banff Alpine Centre hostel (CAD 35–60/dorm, CAD 120–160 private) — book months ahead for summer.
- ●2:00pm — Sulphur Mountain Gondola (CAD 65 / ≈ USD 48 return, 8-minute ride to 2,281m). The 360° panorama from the summit — Bow Valley below, Banff townsite, the Rocky Mountain range stretching to the horizon — is your orientation to the whole landscape. The boardwalk connects to Sanson's Peak Meteorological Station: a short extra walk with better views than the main gondola terminal.
- ●4:30pm — Banff Upper Hot Springs (CAD 12 / ≈ USD 9, 10-minute walk from gondola base). The thermal pool at 37–40°C has a direct view of Mount Rundle. Bring a towel (CAD 2 rental). Avoid peak weekend evenings.
- ●6:30pm — Bow Falls (free). A 10-minute walk from town where the Bow River narrows through a canyon — the glacially-fed water colour is extraordinary. The confluence of the Spray and Bow Rivers is below the Fairmont Banff Springs.
- ●8:00pm — Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel exterior (free). A Scottish Baronial castle in the Rocky Mountains, built 1888, Canada's most photographed building. Walk around at dusk when it lights up. Dinner on Banff Avenue: Wild Flour Bakery (CAD 12–18) or Tooloulou's for Cajun food (CAD 18–28).
- ●CRITICAL: The Moraine Lake Parks Canada shuttle (CAD 16 / ≈ USD 12 return) must be booked in advance at reservation.pc.gc.ca — fills by February for July–August. Private vehicles are banned from the Moraine Lake road June–October. Without a shuttle booking you cannot go. This is not an overstatement.
- ●5:00am — First shuttle to Moraine Lake departs 5:30am from Lake Louise Village. Arrive at the lake by 5:50am. Walk the Rockpile Trail (20 minutes, free with park pass) to the famous overlook. The lake turns electric blue when sun clears the Valley of Ten Peaks — approximately 6:00–6:30am. The view on the old Canadian twenty-dollar bill. No photograph does it justice.
- ●9:00am — Return shuttle to Lake Louise Village. Walk 20 minutes to Lake Louise itself. The glacier-fed lake and Chateau Lake Louise in the background are instantly recognisable — but the colour shifts continuously from green to jade to turquoise as clouds cross the sky.
- ●10:30am — Plain of Six Glaciers hike (14km return, 5–6 hours, free with park pass). Trail follows the Lake Louise shoreline then climbs to the historic Plain of Six Glaciers teahouse (open seasonally, CAD 15–25 for lunch). The six glaciers visible from the teahouse are retreating measurably year by year.
- ●5:30pm — Return to Banff town. Dinner at The Grizzly House (Banff Avenue institution since 1967, fondue speciality, CAD 35–60 / ≈ USD 26–44 per person) or supermarket self-catering at Safeway on Banff Avenue.
- ●The Icefields Parkway (Highway 93 North) is 230km from Banff to Jasper — consistently ranked among the most beautiful roads on earth. The drive is free with your park pass. Stop at everything; allow a full day.
- ●8:00am — Depart Banff. First stop: Bow Lake (95km north, 1 hour). The source of the Bow River, directly beneath the Wapta Icefield. Num-Ti-Jah Lodge at the shore is a 1920s log building — no entry fee to walk the bank. The turquoise lake colour against the icefield above is one of the parkway's finest compositions.
- ●10:00am — Peyto Lake viewpoint (125km, 15km past Bow Lake). Park and walk 20 minutes uphill. The lake is shaped like a teardrop and the colour is electric blue from suspended glacial flour. Tour buses typically arrive at 10:30am — reach the viewpoint by 10:00am to have it to yourself.
- ●12:00pm — Columbia Icefield Discovery Centre (168km). The Athabasca Glacier extends to within 1km of the highway. Walk the free interpretive trail to the glacier toe. The Glacier Adventure snow bus (CAD 52 / ≈ USD 38) takes you onto the icefield in a specially modified vehicle — standing on a glacier is worth the price.
- ●2:30pm — Athabasca Falls (30km south of Jasper). A wide, powerful waterfall cutting through a narrow basalt canyon. The spray at the main overlook in high-water season (June–July) is impressive. Free with park pass.
- ●5:00pm — Return to Banff (or overnight in Jasper if adjusting the itinerary). Dinner at the Elkhorn Dining Room or Bear Street Tavern (wood-fired pizza, CAD 20–35).
- ●8:00am — Johnston Canyon (26km west of Banff). The trail follows a catwalk bolted to canyon walls above a turquoise river. Lower Falls: 2.6km return, 45 minutes, accessible and spectacular. Upper Falls: 4.8km return, 2 hours, more dramatic. The canyon can be icy in early morning in spring — trail spikes available for rent at the trailhead (CAD 5). Free with park pass.
- ●11:00am — Ink Pots: continue 3km past the Upper Falls to circular cold-water springs bubbling up through the meadow floor in eerie concentric rings. Very few visitors make it this far — you may have the meadow to yourself.
- ●1:30pm — Picnic lunch in the Johnston Canyon car park area. Bring food from Banff — there is no food service at the canyon.
- ●3:00pm — Vermilion Lakes (5-minute drive from Banff townsite). Three interconnected lakes in a wetland on the valley floor. The best place in the Banff area for wildlife at dusk: elk are common (keep 30m distance), beavers active at sunset, great blue herons stalking the shallows. The reflection of Mount Rundle in still water at golden hour is the most photographed scene in Banff after Lake Louise.
- ●6:30pm — Banff Avenue dinner. Saltlik steakhouse (CAD 45–75 / ≈ USD 33–55 per person) or Bear Street Tavern for wood-fired pizza (CAD 20–35).
- ●8:30pm — Two Jack Lake (20 minutes from Banff) for last light. The lake is smaller and quieter than Louise — elk frequently visible on the far shore in summer evenings.
- ●7:00am — Drive 25 minutes east to Canmore (no national park pass required — Canmore is outside the park boundary). Ha Ling Peak trailhead is 5 minutes from downtown Canmore.
- ●7:30am — Ha Ling Peak hike (7.2km return, 520m elevation gain, 2.5–3.5 hours). The summit panorama takes in the full Three Sisters peaks, the Bow Valley, and the Canmore Nordic Centre below. The trail is steep but well-maintained. Bring water and layers — summit temperatures can be 10°C colder than the valley.
- ●11:00am — Descend to Canmore. Lunch at Communitea Café (CAD 15–25 / ≈ USD 11–18, vegetarian-friendly, outdoor seating) or Rocky Mountain Bagel Co. (CAD 10–15).
- ●1:00pm — Farewell poutine: Quebec-style gravy and cheese curds on fries, CAD 12–18 (≈ USD 9–13) anywhere in Banff or Canmore. This is non-negotiable.
- ●2:00pm — Drive to Calgary YYC (1.5 hrs). Allow extra time if returning a rental car. Calgary Airport has a direct CTrain rail link to downtown if spending a night in Calgary before flying.
- ●Optional: The Banff trip pairs naturally with a Calgary stopover — Calgary Stampede runs in July, and the restaurant scene on Stephen Avenue is excellent year-round.
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🏔️ Landmark & Nature Guide
The key sites in order of priority. A Parks Canada day pass (CAD 11.70 / ≈ USD 8.60 per person) or Annual Discovery Pass (CAD 72.25 individual / CAD 145.25 group of up to 7) covers all park entry.
Moraine Lake
The electric-blue lake in the Valley of Ten Peaks — the view on the old Canadian twenty-dollar bill. The Rockpile overlook at sunrise (6:00–6:30am) is the single greatest natural display in Canada. Shuttle must be booked at reservation.pc.gc.ca — fills by February for July.
Lake Louise
Glacier-fed lake with Chateau Lake Louise and Victoria Glacier as a backdrop. The colour shifts continuously from green to turquoise. Plain of Six Glaciers hike (14km return) is the best way to see the full lake. Arrive early — peak crowds by 10am.
Icefields Parkway (Highway 93 North)
230km corridor from Banff to Jasper along a chain of glaciers, icefields, and turquoise lakes. Allow a full day. The Parkway has 30+ designated pullouts — Bow Lake, Peyto Lake, Columbia Icefield, and Athabasca Falls are the essential stops.
Athabasca Glacier
Part of the Columbia Icefield. Walk the free interpretive trail to the glacier toe, or take the Glacier Adventure snow bus onto the icefield (CAD 52 / ≈ USD 38). The glacier has retreated 1.5km since 1890 — interpretive signs mark the historical recession points along the trail.
Johnston Canyon
A canyon trail bolted to the cliff walls above a turquoise river. Lower Falls (2.6km return) accessible and dramatic. Upper Falls (4.8km return) more impressive. Continue to the Ink Pots (8km return) for cold-water springs in an alpine meadow — the least-visited highlight on the Banff side.
Sulphur Mountain Gondola
8-minute gondola to 2,281m for a 360° panorama of the Bow Valley and Rocky Mountain range. The boardwalk to Sanson's Peak Meteorological Station (free with gondola) is less crowded than the main terminal and has superior views. Best in the late afternoon light.
Vermilion Lakes
Three interconnected wetland lakes 5 minutes from Banff townsite. The best wildlife watching location in the Banff area — elk, beaver, great blue heron, and occasional bear. Mount Rundle reflected in still water at sunset is the most photographed scene in Banff after Lake Louise. Cycle the flat road at dusk.
Banff — Lakes, Glaciers & the Rocky Mountains
Canada's most spectacular national park in five scenes.
📸
Moraine Lake Valley of Ten Peaks
Moraine Lake Valley of Ten Peaks
Moraine Lake at sunrise — electric blue water surrounded by ten jagged Rocky Mountain peaks.
💰 Budget Breakdown
Banff is not cheap — it's one of the most expensive national park destinations in North America. The park pass, accommodation, and shuttle bookings are the largest costs. Budget carefully around the Moraine Lake shuttle (book early, not expensive) and the Parks Canada pass (annual pass pays for itself quickly).
| Category | Budget (C$) | Mid-Range (C$) | Luxury (C$) |
|---|---|---|---|
| ✈️ Calgary airport transfer | C$35–55 | C$74–82 | C$300–450 |
| 🏨 Accommodation (5 nights) | C$175–300 | C$900–1,600 | C$2,500–7,500 |
| 🎫 Parks Canada Annual Pass | C$72 | C$72 | C$72 |
| 🚌 Moraine Lake shuttle | C$16 | C$16 | C$300–500 (private) |
| 🏔️ Gondola + Hot Springs | C$77 | C$77 | included |
| 🧊 Glacier Adventure (opt.) | C$52 | C$52–87 | C$200–300 |
| 🍽 Food (5 days) | C$125–225 | C$300–500 | C$750–2,000 |
| 🗺 Activities + guides | C$0–80 | C$150–400 | C$500–2,000 |
| TOTAL (per person) | C$500–900 | C$1,600–2,800 | C$4,500–12,500 |
💚 Budget (C$80–140/day)
HI Banff hostel, supermarket meals from Safeway, free hiking on all trails, optional gondola. The park pass is the biggest fixed cost — the Annual Discovery Pass pays for itself on day 7 if visiting other parks.
✨ Mid-Range (C$300–560/day)
Banff Park Lodge or Moose Hotel, dining at Bison Restaurant or Bow Valley Grill, gondola + guided Icefields Parkway tour. The sweet spot for first-timers wanting comfort without Fairmont prices.
💎 Luxury (C$900+/day)
Fairmont Banff Springs or Rimrock Resort Hotel, private helicopter flightseeing, helicopter to Moraine Lake, guided via ferrata, tasting menus at Eden Restaurant. Banff at this level is genuinely world-class.
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🏨 Where to Stay in Banff
There are three main accommodation clusters: Banff townsite (most amenities, best for dining and walking), Lake Louise Village (closest to the lake, 57km from Banff), and Canmore (14km outside the park, better value). Fairmont Banff Springs is in a class of its own.
Fairmont Banff Springs
Iconic luxury castle · Banff townsite
The Scottish Baronial castle on the hill above Banff — Canada's most famous hotel. Built by the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1888, now a National Historic Site. The Bow Valley view rooms are what you're paying for. Book 6+ months ahead for summer. The exterior and lobby are free to visit whether staying or not.
Rimrock Resort Hotel
Clifftop luxury · Sulphur Mountain
Perched on the clifftop above Banff on Sulphur Mountain Road, with panoramic Bow Valley views from most rooms. Eden Restaurant (tasting menu) is the finest dining in Banff. Quieter than the Fairmont — closer to the gondola base and Upper Hot Springs.
Moose Hotel & Suites
Boutique mid-range · Banff townsite
Rooftop hot pools overlooking Cascade Mountain are the headline feature — a genuinely excellent addition to the room rate. Modern rooms, central Banff Avenue location. Book early; fills quickly in summer.
HI Banff Alpine Centre
Hostel · Banff townsite
The best hostel in Banff — clean, well-run, with a restaurant and social areas. A 15-minute walk from Banff Avenue. Dorm beds book out months in advance for summer; private rooms are genuinely good value given Banff hotel prices.
Canmore Hotels (budget-friendly base)
Various options · 14km outside park
Canmore is 14km outside Banff National Park — a short drive with no park pass required just to sleep there. Hotel prices are 30–50% lower than Banff. Several mid-range hotels and B&Bs with mountain views. A car is required if basing yourself here.
🍽️ Where to Eat in Banff
Banff Avenue has the main concentration of restaurants. Budget travellers can significantly cut costs by buying groceries from Safeway on Banff Avenue or stocking up in Canmore (cheaper than inside the park) for self-catering.
Banff Brewing Co.
Brewpub · Banff Avenue
The most lively spot on Banff Avenue — a brewpub with outstanding Alberta craft beer (the Rocky Mountain Lager is the local standard) and a solid pub menu. Bison burgers (CAD 22–28), elk nachos, and daily specials. The best people-watching in Banff. CAD 20–35 per person. No reservation needed.
Post Hotel Dining Room (Lake Louise)
Fine dining · Lake Louise Village
The Post Hotel is a small, award-winning property in Lake Louise Village with one of Canada's most respected wine cellars (35,000 bottles). The dining room serves Alberta prime beef, Pacific seafood, and Quebec cheese. CAD 80–130 per person. Worth the trip from Banff if you're already at Lake Louise — book well ahead.
The Bison Restaurant
Contemporary Canadian · Bear Street
Alberta bison, locally-foraged mushrooms and herbs, and an excellent Canadian VQA wine list. Bear Street is Banff's quieter restaurant street — less tourist-facing than the Avenue. CAD 45–70 per person. The Alberta bison short rib is the dish to order.
Grocery Run from Canmore
Self-catering · 14km from Banff
Canmore has a full Safeway and several independent grocers at prices noticeably lower than inside the park. For budget travellers doing 5 days, stocking up on breakfast and lunch items in Canmore on arrival saves C$20–35/day. Most hostel and mid-range hotel rooms have basic kitchenettes or communal kitchen access.
Communitea Café (Canmore)
Café-restaurant · Canmore
The best-value sit-down meal near the Banff area. Vegetarian-friendly menu, generous portions, and outdoor seating with Three Sisters views. Ideal for the Day 5 post-hike lunch. CAD 15–25 per person. A Canmore institution.
Where to Stay in Banff National Park
Verified prices · Instant booking
Fairmont Banff Springs
Iconic castle hotel · National Historic Site
Rimrock Resort Hotel
Clifftop luxury · Panoramic views
Moose Hotel & Suites
Boutique mid-range · Rooftop hot pools
HI Banff Alpine Centre
Hostel · Best budget option in Banff
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Things to Do in Banff National Park
Tours & experiences · Instant confirmation
Banff Gondola Sulphur Mountain
Must doIcefields Parkway Full Day Tour
Top experienceBanff Wildlife Evening Safari
Mt Norquay Via Ferrata
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❌ Mistakes to Avoid
Not Booking the Moraine Lake Shuttle in Advance
The Moraine Lake Parks Canada shuttle fills by February for the July–August peak season. Private vehicles are banned from the Moraine Lake road June–October. Taxis are prohibited. If you arrive without a shuttle booking in July or August, you cannot go — there is no workaround. Set a calendar reminder for the January opening date on reservation.pc.gc.ca.
Entering the Park Without a Parks Canada Pass
Banff National Park requires a valid entry pass for all visitors. Day passes are CAD 11.70 per person (≈ USD 8.60). The Annual Discovery Pass (CAD 72.25 individual, CAD 145.25 group of up to 7) covers all national parks in Canada and pays for itself on day 7 of a 5-day Banff trip if you plan to visit Jasper or other parks in the same year.
Hiking Without Bear Spray
Black bears and grizzly bears are both active in Banff National Park. Bear spray (a powerful pepper-based deterrent, effective range 7–10m) is the most effective protection against a charging bear — more effective than firearms. Buy or rent it immediately upon arrival in Banff (CAD 40–55 to buy, CAD 5–10/day to rent). Carry it on your hip, accessible. Make noise on trails.
Driving the Icefields Parkway Without Stopping
Many visitors treat the Icefields Parkway as a fast route to Jasper and drive it in 2.5 hours. The Parkway has 30+ designated pullouts, each with a specific feature. Stopping at all of them adds 3–4 hours to the drive and transforms the experience entirely. Allow a full day, not a morning.
💡 Pro Tips for Banff
Moraine Lake: Take the First Shuttle (5:30am)
The lake turns electric blue when sunlight clears the Valley of Ten Peaks — typically 6:00–6:30am. Take the first Parks Canada shuttle (5:30am departure), walk the Rockpile (20 min), and be at the viewpoint before 6am. The 40-minute sunrise transition is the single greatest natural display in Canada. By 8am the lake is crowded; by 9am very crowded.
Peyto Lake at 8am Before Tour Buses Arrive
The Peyto Lake overlook is on every tour bus itinerary. Buses arrive 10:00–11:30am. If you reach the viewpoint by 8:00am you have it to yourself — electric-blue teardrop lake and the full valley below in morning light. The upper viewpoint (15-minute extra walk past the main platform) is almost always empty even at peak hours.
Vermilion Lakes at Dusk for Wildlife
Elk and deer walk through Banff townsite regularly in the hour before and after sunset. The Vermilion Lakes road at dusk (free to walk or cycle) is consistently productive — beaver at the dam, great blue heron in the shallows, elk crossing the meadow. Keep 30m from elk — they appear docile but charge without warning. Grizzlies are occasionally sighted near the lakes.
Fairmont Banff Springs at Alpenglow
The castle turns from grey stone to warm amber in the 30-minute window before sunset. Stand on the Bow River bridge or the lower terrace for the classic angle with Bow Falls in the foreground. You do not need to be a hotel guest to access the grounds or take photographs. This is free and worth planning your Day 1 evening around.
Winter Banff Costs 30–50% Less
Summer (July–August) is peak pricing. Winter (December–March) brings substantially lower hotel rates, no shuttle booking anxiety, and world-class skiing at Sunshine Village, Lake Louise, and Mt Norquay. The town is atmospheric under snow. Lake Louise partially freezes for skating in January–February. The trade-off: Moraine Lake road is closed.
Stock Up on Groceries Before Entering the Park
Food inside Banff National Park is significantly more expensive than outside. Canmore (14km east, no park pass required) has a full Safeway at normal prices. If driving from Calgary, stop at a Walmart or Safeway in Canmore before entering the park. Stock breakfast items, trail snacks, and lunch supplies for 2–3 days. Saves C$15–30/day.
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